Across eastern Washington, vineyards and wineries are quietly evolving. After decades dominated by classic Bordeaux and Rhône white wines, a vibrant new star has arrived: Vermentino.
Commonly linked with Mediterranean climates, this grape was first cultivated in Italy more than 500 years ago. It quickly spread to southern France, where it is known as Rolle. The bulk of Vermentino wines are produced in Italy, primarily on the island of Sardinia and the coastal regions of Tuscany.
Vermentino wines debuted in Washington this year. Five pioneering producers — Balboa Winery, Callan Cellars, Gård Vintners, JM Cellars and REALI Family Vineyard — are proving that Vermentino is more than a novelty wine. Sourcing grapes from high-elevation sites on the Royal Slope to the dramatic bluffs of Wallula Gap, the wind-deposited loess of Walla Walla, and a comparatively cool microclimate in the Yakima Valley, they are defining a new chapter for Washington white wines.
The momentum behind Washington Vermentino is driven by three factors: shifting vineyard climates, vine durability and evolving consumer palates.
As eastern Washington growing seasons experience warmer summer days, growers and winemakers are actively seeking white varieties that can withstand intense heat without sacrificing acidity and flavors. Vermentino flourishes in warm weather and uses Washington’s cool nights to retain its natural acidity.
“With hotter summers, we’re going to need more grapes that can tolerate heat,” says Josh Lawrence, proprietor of Gård Vintners and Lawrence Vineyards. “We currently have some white grapes that can’t handle the heat. Vermentino is ideal for our climate.”
Legendary winegrower Dick Boushey planted three acres of Vermentino in 2022. “Some Rhône whites like Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne can get flabby in the heat, and you need to pick early,” Boushey says. “Vermentino has great acidity that remains present even later in the growing season.”
In addition to being heat tolerant, Vermentino is durable and disease-resistant, making it an attractive investment. “Vermentino is grower-friendly because the vines have looser clusters and don’t get botrytis bunch rot,” Boushey explains. “They’re more winter-hardy than most Rhône whites and Sauvignon Blanc. That means you’re not devoting a lot of resources to it, and you can harvest a crop every year that will ripen.”
This viticultural resiliency coincides with a shifting market. Wine drinkers are venturing beyond the traditional white offerings of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio towards crisp, aromatic whites that offer lower alcohol, and are food friendly.
Here’s a closer look at five Washington wineries that are “all in” on this Mediterranean variety.
When Balboa replanted its First Light Vineyard, they carved out one acre for Vermentino. Introducing the grape to the warm climate of the Walla Walla Valley was about giving wine lovers something fresh and unusual. “In Walla Walla, it is no longer just Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah,” says winemaker Tyler Grennan. “You’re seeing a lot more experimentation and risk-taking with wineries trying new varietals and sites. Wine drinkers are growing more daring. Vermentino is a great way to branch out into something different.”
Owner/winemaker Lisa Callan enjoys introducing wine lovers to uncommon grape varietals. When Callan learned that Dick Boushey was growing Vermentino, she jumped at the chance to try it. “Washington is so cool — we can grow almost any grape variety,” Callan says. “Making wines that are approachable and a little different from the norm will hopefully be what carries us through [these challenging times.]” She is optimistic that Vermentino can capture a new cohort of wine enthusiasts.
Gård’s introduction to Vermentino began in Provence, France, where proprietor Josh Lawrence fell in love with the grape’s crisp brightness. In 2022, he recognized a growing consumer appetite for lively whites over heavy reds, “People love new and exciting things to try,” Lawrence says. “They’re tired of boring and old.” Lawrence and winemaker Matias Kúsulas planted 6.5 acres in the Royal Slope AVA. Kúsulas describes Vermentino as a “workhorse,” with its inherent reliability is its defining trait. “It is a warm-climate cultivar that holds acid well,” he says. “It will thrive no matter where you plant it.”
Inspired by his travels through Italy, owner/winemaker John Bigelow eagerly embraced Vermentino in 2022 when given the opportunity to plant at Wallula Gap Vineyard, overlooking the Columbia River in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. For Bigelow, introducing a novel variety provides a platform for education, storytelling and guest engagement. “I think wine consumers are ready for unique new varietals,” he says. “With a new project like this, I can explain what we did and why we did it. Consumers are looking for experiences rather than wine because there are so many great wines already available.”
For founders Ken and Kristin REALI, cultivating Vermentino was inspired by an unforgettable trip to Sardinia, where they enjoyed crisp Vermentino with seafood. The grape is also a heartfelt tribute to their Italian heritage. When planning their vineyard, they wanted a refreshing Italian white variety to complement their Sangiovese and Barbera plantings. “People are pleasantly surprised when they drink Vermentino for the first time,” Ken REALI says. “Some say they don’t usually drink white wines, but the Vermentino immediately appeals to them.”
Vermentino has officially established roots in Washington soils. It represents a very promising addition to the state’s white wine lineup.
Wine List
2025 Balboa Winery Vermentino | Walla Walla AVA
Grape Source: First Light Estate Vineyard
Winemaking: Fermented and aged in a combination of stainless steel and neutral French oak barrels
Tasting Notes: Delicate, refined and aromatic, balancing bright citrus and floral notes
110 Cases | $30 | 13% ABV
2025 Callan Cellars Vermentino | Columbia Valley AVA
Grape Sources: Two-thirds from Corfu Vineyard (Royal Slope AVA) and one-third from Boushey Vineyard (Yakima Valley AVA)
Winemaking: Fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel
Tasting Notes: Zippy and bright with pronounced acidity and subtle savory characteristics
160 Cases | $30 | 11.6% ABV
2025 Gård Estate Wines Vermentino | Royal Slope AVA
Grape Source: Corfu Estate Vineyard
Winemaking: Fermented in ultra-cold stainless steel, aged in stainless steel
Tasting Notes: Complex, rich and aromatic with crisp acid structure
287 Cases | $32 | 12.8% ABV
2025 JM Cellars Vermentino | Horse Heaven Hills AVA
Grape Source: Wallula Gap (The Benches) Vineyard
Winemaking: Fermented and aged in terracotta clay amphora
Tasting Notes: Herbaceous, mineral-driven and floral with a creamy mouthfeel
52 Cases | $38 | 12.8% ABV
2025 REALI Vermentino | Walla Walla AVA
Grape Source: REALI Family Estate Vineyard
Winemaking: Fermented and aged in concrete egg with partial malolactic fermentation
Tasting Notes:: Bright acidity with a creamy texture and weighty mouthfeel
90 Cases | $45 | 13.9% ABV
Hero image Photo credit ©Richard Duval Images
