This. This! This is what I’d like to see more people doing on the Wine Islands—sparkling wine. NOT, contrary to popular belief, because it’s a way to use up “under ripe” grapes. Because our cool, maritime climate and ancient volcanic soils can support grapes naturally high in acid and create wines at the mountain top of freshness. The Unsworth Vineyards & Winery 2010 Cuvee De L’ile, a traditional method sparkling wine, is a new project for Cowichan Valley’s progressive and young estate winery, and I hope their compatriots take note. Granny smith crisp on the nose and palate, this 100 percent Pinot Noir spent two years on the lees after full malolactic—certainly needed to calm that raging acidity. The result is apple dominant, with light stone and a cushion of lightly creamy lees on the mid palate. Lemon zest finishes off the bright ending. Fantastic first effort—certainly worth toasting.
