One of the West Coast’s most exciting winegrowing regions oversees a lake, takes in just 11 inches of rain a year, and is turning out some of the most adventurous wines on the map.
Say hello to the Lake Chelan American Viticultural Area (AVA), a picturesque expanse nestled in the northern core of Washington state. Framed by the rugged foothills of the Cascades and positioned high above the Columbia River Plateau, the AVA is storybook in terms of physical setting and ideal for growing a wide array of wine grapes.
Wine grapes have called this place home since the late 19th Century, thanks to European immigrant communities. Agriculture has always flourished here, namely in the form of apples, pears and stone fruit. But it wasn’t until the late 20th Century that growers got serious about the prospect of a world-class wine region, trying out Chardonnay, Merlot and other grape varieties in the distinctive glacial soils of the area. In 2009, Lake Chelan became an official winegrowing designation and presently some 40 producers work with dozens of grape varieties, releasing exciting wines that are collectively turning heads — and adventurous palates — towards the lake.
Here, there’s wonderful tension between big and small. The high elevation (which tops out well over 3,000 feet above sea level) and the low levels of wine production; the relatively small appellation and the numerous varietals (not to mention blends) produced; the sky-high quality of the wines and the small town atmosphere. And of course the lake itself — rather slender in width but some 50 miles long and an astounding 1,486 feet deep, one of the deepest in North America. It’s this body of water that treats resident vines to a unique set of growing conditions.
The so-called lake effect works magic from a wine standpoint. Temperatures are kept in check, frost is virtually forbidden, and the extra hang time allows for optimal maturation in grape clusters. The wines reflect this special climate, offering an unbeatable combination of intriguing minerality, persistent acidity, nuanced fruit flavor and layered structure. Pair that with mom-and-pop labels operating out of intimate and welcoming estates and you have the backdrop for your new favorite wine destination.
“Most of us are small family wineries,” says Elizabeth Keyser-Hadley. She’s the co-president and winemaker at Rocky Pond Estate Winery set on the south end of the lake. “Winemakers are actually in the tasting rooms pouring.” It’s a genuine brand of hospitality many larger wine destinations have long lost sight of — the ability to chat up the vintner as she puts another splash of her most recent work in your glass. It’s intimate, eye-opening and allows visitors to get the full story behind every wine.
With so much diversity in the fields, there’s ample room for invention in the cellar. That can come in the form of everything from a carbonic maceration Gamay Noir as fresh and bright as an alpine meadow, to a skin-contact Gewürztraminer with the texture of a red wine. And it’s precisely this kind of intrepid winemaking that’s allowed Lake Chelan as a whole to carve out a sterling and still-growing reputation for outstanding takes on Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling — even Gamay Noir.
“Chelan is bringing the cool creative piece,” Keyser-Hadley says. “We have the license to do it with the lower production levels.” That can translate to a lovely and unexpected Dolcetto, a fruit-driven and leaner take on Tempranillo, or Riesling that reminds of the Mosel. There’s something to be discovered and savored by every kind of wine drinker.
“It’s a tiny AVA with a ton of variety,” says Julian Shaver. He’s the owner and winemaker at Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards, located in Manson on the north end of the lake. “Italian reds, German whites, Rhone whites and more.” And it’s all being grown by a tight-knit community over roughly 24,000-acre, postcard-worthy slice within the larger Columbia Valley. In most cases, you’d have to drive for hours — and likely across appellation borders — to experience such a vibrant spectrum.
While there’s no bad time to visit Lake Chelan, the magic of harvest makes fall one of the most memorable stretches to take in the scene. Come September, October and November, the end of another growing season is celebrated and the region lights up, not just in terms of fall colors but the bright and infectious energy of wine harvest. Visitors are greeted by cooler temperatures, smaller crowds and the multi-sensory delight of wine being made, often just paces away from the tasting room.
“In the fall the winemaking process is on full display,” Shaver says. “The doors are wide open.”
With so much variety in such a relatively small yet stunning growing area, Lake Chelan has something special for every wine enthusiast.
Upcoming Events: Lake Chelan hosts its highly anticipated Barrel Weekends November 13-15 and 20-22. Guests enjoy new releases, grape stomps, live music, gourmet cuisine and more.
