Just across the canal from the Center of the Universe, also known as the Fremont neighborhood of Seattle, a distiller-vintner’s thirst for experimentation is driving the creation of some of the boldest wines in the city, and indeed in the state. Here is where Michael Almquist, driving force behind Almquist Family Vintners, sets out on an almost scientific exploration of the finest Washington fruit he can find, running side-by-side fermentations of the same grapes with diverse yeasts, oaks and barrel toasts in search of the best fit for each lot. “If you listen,” according to Almquist, “the grapes will tell you what they want to be.”
Almquist’s chosen 2009 Nebbiolo certainly has something to say. Saucily fruit-forward in the nose and show-stopping on the palate, the vintage communicates full, bold black currant and marionberry flavors with whispers of spice (nutmeg, cloves) and an orange-floral finish. Jam-packed with fruit as is, the wine will pair nicely with anything from rub-roasted or broiled red meats to dark chocolate torte for your next Saturday night dinner but promises to relax into increasingly nuanced maturity over the coming years.
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