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“I’ve never seen so many trees in my life,” stated a reverent FBI Special Agent Dale Cooper into his handheld tape recorder as he navigated his Dodge Diplomat into the fictional town of “Twin Peaks.” The David Lynch created cult drama series of the same name was one of the first mainstream television looks into the quintessential Pacific Northwest, east of the cities that get the majority of the publicity and into the arboricultural wealth of why Washington is called “The Evergreen State.” An investigative savant, Cooper later learns the majestic trees are Douglas Firs and finds himself focused on a homicide surrounding the “Great Northern Hotel,” known in the real world as the Salish Lodge & Spa.
Built in 1916 as an eight-room inn for weary travelers once through the Cascade Mountains in Snoqualmie, Wash., the lodge went by the epithet of the Snoqualmie Falls Lodge, famous for its four-course country breakfast. Stripped, refurbished and restored, the rustic inn was upgraded into the Salish Lodge, just two years before the first season of “Twin Peaks” was shot in 1990. Adorned with years of accolades from Condé Nast Traveler and Travel + Leisure magazines, today’s Salish Lodge is not only a tree-clad respite for sightseeing, malnourished road warriors, it is an institution of grandeur rest and relaxation in the Northwest.
Location, Location
Roosted above the divine splendor of the Snoqualmie Falls, a 268-foot waterfall on the Snoqualmie River that brings in more than 1.5 million visitors annually, the Salish Lodge is branded as “purely Northwest” and abundantly convenient, located only 30 miles from Seattle.
At the foothills of the Cascades, the lodge is a year-round consummate accommodation for the outdoor enthusiasts. Starting with the outreaching viewing deck for the Snoqualmie Falls, the surrounding forests take hikers in many directions along diverse terrain and trails for the nature novice and the devout trekker. Catch glimpses of snow-capped peaks, serene lakes, gushing rivers and hidden falls—popular trails lead to the lush forest scene of Twin Falls, the wildflower garden that is Rattlesnake Ridge and the solemn tranquility of Annette Lake.
The staff at the Salish is knowledgeable and prepared, many being regulars to the trails themselves. They will arrange a guided tour or supply hikers with snack packs, water and expert trail maps.
Nearby fly-fishing sites options are abound and the rainbow trout are ready. The Jack Nicklaus designed Tournament Players Course at Snoqualmie Ridge golf course is three miles down the Snoqualmie Parkway and a 30-minute drive east will get skiers to the summit of Snoqualmie Pass with discounted lift ticket from the lodge.
Rest Amongst the Ranges
From eight to 84, the guestrooms of the Salish Lodge epitomize repose, transforming the howl of the falls into a sympathetic whisper of running water. With the wood-burning fireplace blazing and the two-person oversized jetted spa tubs bubbling, home away from home is easily established for premium unwinding. Many of the guestrooms feature a window daybed with views of the falls while others include patios that walk out to the falls or balconies to take it all in.
The rooms are set with amenities and additions, including goose down covered featherbeds, 320-thread-count linens, a pillow menu, terry-cloth bathrobes, a mini fridge, coffee and coffee maker, iHome and iPod docks and opulent bath products. Dog-friendly rooms come with food, water bowls, doggie blankets and a “Canine Cuisine” in-room dining menu.
For an extra effort into the lap of luxury, the one-bedroom river view suites are available with separate sleeping quarters fit with a king bed, a parlor with a pull-out sofa couch and dining table that seats eight, an LG 50-inch Plasma TV, Bose surround-sound systems and hardwood floors. Even more so, the fourth floor is outfitted as an optional “Spa Club Level,” that includes a private lounge, extended time in the soaking pools, a personal “Salish Bath Butler” sampler and concierge that guide guests into further R and R.
Salish Sustenance
Dining at the Salish comes in two forms: the casual, cozy ski lodge vibe of The Attic, featuring a Washington applewood-fired pizza oven, new furniture and a completely updated bar plus menu, or the more formal, luxuriant atmosphere against the falls of The Dining Room. The breakfast that gave the lodge its original acclaim nearly 100 years ago is a longstanding tradition featuring four extravagant courses including steel-cut oats, hive-fresh honey drizzled homemade biscuits, buttermilk pancakes and the “main course” platter of farm fresh eggs, smoked bacon, pork-apple sausage, Salish honey cured ham, hashed potatoes and, of course, more buttermilk biscuits. If you can possibly fit more in, order the Salish Signature Hot Chocolate Pot where a server adds tableside hot vanilla bean infused cream into chunks of dark chocolate ganache to create standard-setting hot cocoa.
Reserve a table in one of the private alcoves for an intimate feast in The Dining Room. With the falls as your backdrop, scan through the menu and wrestle over ordering the tableside-served beef tartare or the crispy pork belly with pickled mushrooms. The opulent seared scallops on pureed cauliflower come in a half size portion to request for an appetizer to share and the roasted duck breast is scored to precision alongside mascarpone grits to be shared with no one.
Start, finish or just stay for the night at The Attic, the fourth floor lounge that is fluent in happy hour as well as casual, comfort grub. For happy hour, try the sourdough grilled cheese, a tangy twist to the classic with 90-day aged American cheese, with a pint of the Salish Honey Ale, a specialty to the lodge brewed by nearby Snoqualmie Falls Brewing Company.
Director of culinary for Columbia Hospitality and Salish Lodge & Spa Shannon Galusha credits the natural abundance of the great Northwest for the creativity behind their menus. “The culinary influences of the property are unique by nature,” Galusha says. “We just try to keep the money local. I think farm-to-table is a mainstay, it’s kind of our little bio-zone in the Northwest and we apply that method whenever possible.”
The Pinnacle of Relaxation
Recently renovated and heightened in elegance with multiple forms of hardwood and slate throughout, The Spa at Salish Lodge is the summit of alpine serenity. A eucalyptus steam room, a dry sauna and two therapeutic soaking pools are open to all guests during regular hours, alongside a “relaxation room” complete with a fireplace, luxurious day beds and oversized chairs piled with pillows.
Indulge in a “Straight from the Hive” treatment like the Oatmeal and Honey Body Scrub using the organic honey from the lodge’s onsite apiary. Needing to knead? Try the basic Tranquility Massage to achieve its title or allow the aromas from the Salish garden to put you to peace with the Wildflower Hill Lavender Massage. The Moonlight Massage on the Hidden Terrace offers intimacy for couples desiring to digress from stress together in the private terrace next to the falls.
The Hidden Terrace also contributes its temperature-controlled, fall-side beauty to the lodge’s new “Yoga by the Falls” program, led by Director of Mind, Body & Spirit, John “Jess” Jessum. With more than three decades of “self-actualization arts,” Jessum was a personal hire by general manager Rod Lapasin, a yoga enthusiast and hospitality veteran who launched the lodge’s program. An experience like no other with the resonance of the falls taking your practice to a balanced center, Jessum’s Vinyasa Flow and Gentle Yoga classes are accessible for all levels and his hands-off approach can coax your mind into sangfroid or your body into a headstand.
“Yoga by the Falls” is somewhat a mantra for what the Salish Lodge is all about. “It’s when you’re laying down in shavasana,” says Lapasin, in reference to the final resting pose of yoga practice. “That is about as real, tranquil and close to the falls as you can get.”
Salish Lodge & Spa || 6501 Railroad Ave, Snoqualmie, WA || salishlodge.com
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