This last weekend marked the fifth annual iteration of TOAST, and the event was well worth the drive down I-5. It brought together more than forty Northwest distillers to pour a wide range of products alongside craft cocktails, non-alcoholic complements (Raft Botanicals, Bradley’s Tonic Co.), coffee from Oregon Coffee Guild members, and mouthwatering bites from five local eateries.
Portland’s distillery scene has never yet failed to impress me as a crucible of innovation, and this visit was no different. In the crowded yet comfortable room at the gorgeous Leftbank Annex (a new venue for TOAST this year), sherbet-colored sunset light streamed through two full walls of windows as afternoon ambled into night, and a smorgasbord of spirits, collaborations and conversations kept attendees busy for the event’s full six hours. From wandering among it all, here are three of my takeaways from TOAST 2015.
1) Distillers are reaching further for inspiration. Some are even going underground. Take the Oregon Starka Project, which was unveiled mid-evening at TOAST. The idea was sparked by an Eastern European tradition of burying a barrel of vodka upon a child’s birth, to be served at the child’s wedding years later. Three distilleries participated in the project—Indio Spirits, Bull Run Distilling Company and Big Bottom Distilling—and each put their own spin on starka using distinct wine barrels and aging for between 12 and 16 months. The process imparted wood, stone fruit and spice elements to the vodkas along with beautiful rose, tawny and amber hues. Better yet, all three distillers already have barrels buried for next year. “We’re looking forward to having more distilleries join in the project,” Ted Pappas, Oregon Distillers Guild president and founder of Big Bottom, says.
2) Local doesn’t mean limiting. While few places display more pro-local tendencies than Portland, and while that sentiment still stands strong (this was an Oregon-centric fest, after all), there also seemed to be room for a few more exotic additions to the TOAST lineup. One of the busiest tables of the night, for example, belonged to an imported coca leaf liqueur called Agwa de Bolivia, while plenty of rums, tequilas, limoncellos and liqueurs derived from some similarly far-flung ingredients were in attendance too.
3) Non-distillers are getting into spirits. One of the best things I tried at TOAST was the venerable Townshend’s selection of three tea spirits, released under the newly created Thomas & Sons Distillery label and debuted at TOAST. Each spirit was named to match its base tea’s number—No. 2 Sweet Tea, No. 5 Smoke Tea, No. 16 Spice Tea—as found in Townshend’s tea shops around the region. Bottled at 70 proof, all were augmented by botanicals while retaining an unquestionably true-to-tea flavor, proving as drinkable as an aperitif and displaying a wealth of unique mixological potential. “We’re just getting started with this, and we’re looking forward to where it will go,” head distiller Seth O’Malley says. I’m looking forward to it as well, and you should be, too.
