In collaboration with Expedia Canada to spread the good word of Northwest beverage and tourism, Mark Stock digs deep into Oregon’s spirits scene, from Portland’s Distillery Row and beyond.
In a year that commemorates the state’s first vineyard rows 50 years ago, it’s refreshing to see other fermented goods following Oregon wine’s graceful lead. The Willamette Valley, long applauded for its Pinot Noir potential, has since welcomed craft brewers and distillers to its fertile terrain. And while the floodgates have certainly burst open thanks to a river of beer and wine, it is the healthy trickle of spirits in and around Portland’s Distillery Row that’s primed for a healthy surge.
The Row is an intriguing conglomeration of warehouses, woodworking studios, eateries and small-batch producers. Romantically nostalgic, this tightly knit neighborhood stresses niche trades and relies on deft folks to see them through. Much of today’s talent is tending stills, vats and mass tuns in the Row’s approximate eight-block stretch. The inner-east side neighborhood may be Oregon’s distillation epicenter, but operations elsewhere prove that a good whiskey or brandy can’t be contained within the city’s limits.
From nuanced eau-de-vie to coffee liqueur and barrel-aged bourbon, Oregon is a beacon of light for the savvy spirit lover. Next time your bar needs a remodel, make a vacation out of it and include the following stops.
Clear Creek Distillery || Hood River
The pioneers of Oregon liquor culture, Clear Creek Distillery opened its doors in 1985. Specializing in eau-de-vie brandies, the label is the product of its orchard setting and of founder Steve McCarthy who aspired to make something akin to what he fell in love with in Europe. In addition to a stellar standard lineup, Clear Creek offers an extremely piney Douglas Fir brandy, a family of grappas and one of the state’s best single-malt whiskeys.
Oregon Spirit Distillers || Bend
In the midst of Beertown USA, Oregon Spirit Distillers stands out with its grain-to-glass bourbon, gin, absinthe and more in Bend. Launched by a former bartender with fervor for sourcing locally, Oregon Spirit highlights include the Wild Card absinthe with wormwood that comes from Ashland and Merrylegs Genever gin comprised of staff-handpicked local juniper berries. Oregon Spirits is one of the few distilleries making their bourbon completely in-house, the polished C.W. Irwin bourbon is barreled in American oak for two to five years until deemed ready.
Rolling River || Portland
Rolling River’s label features the ship that brought the Rickard family to the Pacific Northwest from Norway a few generations back. Unsurprisingly, there’s a Scandinavian touch to the label, which started in 2012. The three-person operation offers a smooth and flavorful vodka and a delicate aquavit made with dill, fennel, caraway and juniper. Master distiller Tim Rickard’s work features prominently at Portland boreal restaurants like Broder and Fenrir. In fact, the latter recently worked with Rolling River on a cocktail series stressing the aquavit.
Rogue Spirits || Newport
Known predominately for its fist-clenching ales, Rogue quietly turns out some of the best spirits in the state. The Newport location touts the original brewery as well as some of the harder to find liquors. Try the delightfully balanced Hazelnut Spice rum, made from nuts grown by Kirk Family Filberts, and the Pink Spruce gin, aged four-six months in Oregon Pinot Noir barrels, affording it a hint of color and a slight hit of fruit.
