January is a time for blowing away the cobwebs after the indulgence of the holidays. If you’ve had one too many creamy eggnogs or overdone it on the sparkling wine, you may be in the mood for a crisp, refreshing cocktail that will reinvigorate you for the year ahead.
On the edge of the ocean in Shirley, BC, Jason and Alayne MacIsaac of Sheringham Distillery are producing a selection of spirits which reflect the pioneer history and wild coastline of Vancouver Island. The distillery takes its cue from the history of its location, on the site of a 1930s-built hotel which was supposed to have a still operating in the basement. Jason MacIsaac trained as a chef and his experience working with local producers has carried through to his new business, focusing on using purely BC ingredients for their spirits.
Sheringham’s “William’s White” whisky is based on the clear whisky or moonshine which used to be produced in the same area and smuggled over to the United States during Prohibition. As a tribute to the natural landscape, their “Seaside Gin” incorporates winged kelp harvested on the shores of the island, so that a classic gin and tonic can transport you to the bracing air of the beach.
More unusually, however, Sheringham also produces an aquavit (or akvavit), the traditional spirit of the Nordic countries. Aquavit is generally distilled from grain or potatoes, much like vodka, then flavored with herbs and spices such as caraway, cardamom, anise and fennel, giving it a complex licorice taste. Scandinavians have been producing and drinking aquavit since at least the 16th century, when it was believed to have medicinal properties — aquavit means “water of life.” It is still generally believed to aid the digestion and often accompanies festive meals, where shots of aquavit are used in toasts and as palate cleansers.
Although aquavit is rarely produced outside Scandinavia, the strong Nordic heritage of the Pacific Northwest means that it’s slightly easier to find here than in the rest of the world. The MacIsaacs were inspired to produce their aquavit through local bartendering legend Shawn Soole, who took a trip to Iceland in 2015 and fell in love with the local variant, Brennívin. The Sheringham version incorporates the lovely fresh taste of local winged kelp along with the usual herbs, giving it a unique Vancouver Island twist.
It’s unusual to find aquavit on a cocktail menu, since the spirit is not widely consumed outside Scandinavia, but as the appetite for more obscure and esoteric cocktail ingredients grows, it might just be the next big thing. The herbal flavor works particularly well with the clean taste of citrus, so a simple Aquavit Gimlet is an easy way to try it for the first time. This is a brisk, fresh drink which makes the most of seasonal winter citrus and has a restorative effect after festive excesses. If you’re inspired by this recipe, the MacIsaacs have partnered with local BC bartenders to come up with a wide range of aquavit cocktails, which you can find here.
Aquavit Gimlet
1 ½ ounces Sheringham akvavit
½ ounce simple syrup*
½ ounce fresh lime juice
Pour all ingredients into a shaker tin. Add ice, shake and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a lime wheel.
*For the simple syrup, add one cup of sugar and one cup of water to a pan and bring to the boil. Simmer for about 5 minutes, then leave to cool. The syrup will keep for about 1 month in the refrigerator.
