Some of the best pupus and maitais I’ve had weren’t from ocean-side tiki bars in the South Pacific, but rather from the gritty, gray streets of Tacoma, Washington, at the Tacoma Cabana. Despite its unlikely location, the drinks and food at this kitschy-chic bar are unparalleled by any other mainland attempts I’ve tasted. But, then again, I wouldn’t expect anything less from cocktail master and Tacoma Cabana owner, Jason Alexander.
Alexander is an artist. His cocktails are cool, refreshing, boozy (very boozy) and free of any pre-made mixers. Peer behind the bar at the house-made mixers—each filled with a thoughtful combination of fresh syrups and juices—that line the shelves. The knowledge Alexander has for his niche is clear: just take a look at the tiki bar’s r(h)um list, which is both extensive and frankly a little bit intimidating. What’s incredible is that, despite featuring a collection of some 200 rum varieties, Alexander can tell you a bit about all of them. And, while Alexander’s trade secrets are ones of proprietary value, he’s happy to educate, which is why the Tacoma Cabana even features a glossary of common tiki terms on their website.
I’ve enjoyed “vacationing” at the Tacoma Cabana after a long day of work or on the weekend with friends—it’s my island getaway in the city. I love it, and chances are you will too. You can order the planter’s punch, which is always good, or select one of the Cabana’s many featured mai tais, including the Fifty Dollar Mai Tai, which is exactly what it sounds like. You can knock coconuts as you share a Boo Loo for Two (this drink is served inside of a pineapple and is limit two per customer), or refresh with the Missionary’s Downfall, a minty concoction of lime, honey and rum, blended to frothy perfection. I’m also a fan of the Cabana’s hurricane—a classic, yet hard to find cocktail that is maybe too good.
And, as always seems to be the case when drinking, with booze comes necessity for food, and the Tacoma Cabana’s selection of eats is equally as palatable as their cocktails. Their food menu, also known as their “vacation fusion menu,” features a wide selection of pupu-type apps and island-inspired entrees. I’m a personal fan of their pupu platter, which features a little bit of everything from coco chicken skewers to Bali Hai sliders. I’ve also sat and gorged happily on the Cabana’s Moi burger, which is loaded with beef, cheese, bacon and a house-made barbecue sauce that adds a touch of sweet to this beefy beast. Do I dare say it’s a little slice of paradise? It is.
But what pulls the whole thing together is the Tacoma Cabana’s atmosphere. It’s tacky in the best way possible. In addition to their party room, which is available for private events, the Tacoma Cabana features two main dining rooms: the front room, which offers small tables for two or four and bar seating, and the backroom, which is creatively decorated with paper lanterns, tiki gods, surfboards and post cards. I’m a fan of this kind of décor when it’s done well, and the Tacoma Cabana crushes it.
When the damp, gray days that we are all too well accustomed to in the Pacific Northwest start to feel a bit burdensome, an exotic—sans sunshine—escape to the Tacoma Cabana is well within reach.
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