Toast to Washington: Celebrating community, diversity and innovation in the Evergreen State

by | Aug 7, 2024

August in Washington brings warm days and the perfect opportunity to savor the state’s renowned wines. This month, we celebrate Washington Wine Month, a time to spotlight the state’s exceptional vineyards and wineries. Join us as we explore the rich flavors and vibrant culture that make Washington wines truly special.

Washington is crafting some pretty phenomenal wine. It is also crafting an international identity as a wine destination, captivating enthusiasts with its daring flavors and distinctive character. The one thing that stands out is the tight-knit community. There is a common underlying theme that Washington winemakers not only support each other, but also endeavor to sip wine from all over the state. “We are all in it together,” says Shae Frichette, owner and winemaker at Frichette Winery. “A big part of this is real authentic feedback. A fellow winemaker driving past us might say, ‘Hey, your fruit looks ready for picking!’ Jokes apart, it is about lifting each other through good and bad. This is Red Mountain. This is Washington.”

James Mantone, owner and winemaker at Syncline Winery in the Columbia River Gorge, echoes this camaraderie. “If I mess up, I can go to my neighbor and brainstorm with him about the path forward,” he says. “And I would do the same for them. This is the beauty of being a part of the Washington wine community.”

Delving deeper into the Washington wine community, we got winemakers and industry mavens to share their love for the regions that shape Washington wines, their peers’ creations, the varietals and, above all, the energy.

Devyani Isabel Gupta
Head winemaker and viticulturist at Valdemar Estates | Walla Walla

Devyani Isabel Gupta highlights the sheer variety within Washington’s winemaking landscape, emphasizing the state’s diverse terroir and winemaking styles. “There are always new, undiscovered sub-regions, new producers and new varieties, creating a continued, consistent core of high quality.”

“Let’s focus on my backyard: Walla Walla Valley. There’s Rotie and Grosgrain near the Rocks District, Aluvé and FIGGINS in the Mill Creek corridor of the Walla Walla Valley, and I enjoy visiting Tranche; the wines are stellar (and not just because my husband is the assistant winemaker there) and their live music series is an approachable and lovely way to wind down on a summer evening with a nice glass of wine.”

Rachael Horn
Winemaker and author, owner at AniChe Cellars | Underwood

Rachael Horn’s perspective mirrors a shifting narrative in Washington’s wine culture. “It feels like Washington is cracking open right now, letting the light in,” she muses. “We’re celebrating diversity and cultivating unknown potential in our wines by diversifying our makers, growers and advocates.”

“I love what my neighbor Julia is doing at Loop De Loop! As a woman winemaker, she is bringing a mystical reverence to the process of wines that shine in the glass! It takes courage to make wines like this, in a space dominated by posturing.”

Guy Barnes
Head winemaker at Columbia Crest Winery | Columbia Valley

Guy Barnes shares insights from the front lines of winemaking, emphasizing the meticulous process of selecting fruit tailored to each wine’s profile. “Currently what excites me is, as a winemaking team at Columbia Crest, we continue to work on finding the best fruit suited for each wine in our portfolio. We’ll pick some fruit early to have a fresher style and allow other fruit to ripen more for a richer style.”

Barnes also recounts a recent memorable tasting experience. “I was out on Red Mountain wine tasting with my family and had some quality wines and a great experience at Hedges Winery.”

Bob Hargadon
General manager of Tsillan Cellars | Lake Chelan

Bob Hargadon celebrates the resurgence of single vineyard, single varietal wines in Washington, particularly in the Lake Chelan valley. “While Washington state has developed a reputation for intentionally producing beautiful blends, particularly reds, an increasing number of growers and winemakers are focusing on producing single vineyard, single varietal wines. For many in Lake Chelan valley, single vineyard, single varietals represent the personal and authentic essence of winemaking,” he explains.

Hargadon highlights wineries like “Lake Chelan Winery, Chelan Ridge Winery and Hard Roe to Hoe Vineyards, who champion these wines’ authenticity and terroir-driven expression.”

Zach Richardson

Winemaker for 14 Hands Winery | Columbia Valley

Zach Richardson sheds light on the trend of “fresh” reds with tank aging, showcasing a dedication to innovation and experimentation. “A favorite winery that I take my friends to is Tucannon Cellars in Benton City,” he says. “This winery holds a special place in my heart, and they have a wonderful venue where I had my wedding.” Richardson also highlights Badger Mountain Winery in Kennewick as a go-to spot with a fun atmosphere and excellent wine.

Chris Horn
Director of liquids at the Heavy Restaurant Group, sommelier at Moveable Feast Retreats and co-author of ‘Cook + Cork’

Chris Horn pays homage to trailblazing wineries like Woodward Canyon and Andrew Will, acknowledging their pivotal role in shaping Washington’s winemaking legacy. “These wineries are not just producing stellar wines; they’re evolving into legacy establishments in the hands of the next generation,” he notes.

Horn also spotlights emerging trends, such as winemakers creating wines with distinct and personal points of view. “Tanya Bjornsson at Esja Wines, who has a clear voice in her wines — she’s not following a trend, but making wines that are both joyous and approachable. You can also put Robert Gomez at Hoquetus Wine Company in that same camp. You have to be confident (and a little fearless) to produce such a wild range of wines — as well as a kick-ass apéritif. It’s worth seeking out Hoquetus’ Eulalia.”

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