In the cellar at Loop de Loop winery, Julia Bailey practices low-intervention winemaking — a kind of glorious alchemy where Gorge-grown grapes meet wild yeast to become Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Grüner Veltliner. Working with fruit from Underwood Mountain’s volcanic soils and wind-whipped slopes, Bailey seeks to preserve the floral aromatics and electric acidity that define the region.
“The wind gives the grapes thick skins. All the good stuff is in the skins — it gives the wine oomph,” Bailey says.
The Columbia Gorge AVA resists easy definition. Unlike the Willamette Valley, with its globally recognized identity built around Pinot Noir, the Gorge is a patchwork of microclimates stretching from cool, rain-soaked western slopes to arid eastern hillsides. It’s a place of experimentation — whether it is varietals, farming methods or winemaking styles.
“It’s a little bit of the Wild West,” Bailey says. “There’s no set identity yet. It’s an exciting place to be because no one knows which varietals will ultimately do best.”
That openness — that sense of possibility — has drawn a remarkable number of women winemakers to the region. And rather than competing for space, many are building something collaboratively.
“The cool thing about women in the Gorge making wine is that we help each other,” says Bailey.
A Collective Defining a Region
Across the Columbia Gorge, women are helping shape what this young AVA will become:
- Lisette Hrapmann (Lagniappe Wines) brings an Old World sensibility to New World fruit, crafting wines rooted in balance and restraint.
- Carly Laws (Free Time Wine) embraces creativity and approachability, producing wines meant for gathering and joy.
- Melaney Schmidt and Malia Myers (Landmass Wines) focus on site-driven expressions and thoughtful farming.
- Bethany Kimmel (Color Collector Wines) explores vibrant, expressive bottlings and extends her advocacy for women winemakers through Soča Wine Shop & Bar, where she champions regional producers alongside global selections.
- Teddi Fuller (Lushington Wines) is known for structured, elegant wines with a strong sense of place.
- Lisa Wiseman (Ridge of Wonders) crafts small-lot wines that reflect the rugged beauty of the Gorge.
- Laura Brennan-Bissell (Aitia Wine) produces nuanced, terroir-driven wines that have earned national attention.
- Anaïs Mera andRachael Horn (AniChe Cellars) blend artistry and precision in wines that showcase both power and finesse.
- Brianne Day (Day Wines), a longtime advocate for organic farming and minimal intervention, has become one of Oregon’s most recognized independent voices in natural-leaning winemaking.
Together, these winemakers represent more than a trend. They are defining a region still in the midst of discovering itself — experimenting with regenerative farming, rethinking tradition and building a culture of mentorship and mutual support.
Raise a glass
As part of Women’s History Month this March, explore the pioneering women shaping the Columbia Gorge’s wine future. Seek out their bottles, visit their tasting rooms and learn the stories behind the labels.
For a deeper dive, Skamania Lodge will host a special Dine & Discover: Women in Wine experience on March 7 in celebration of International Women’s Day weekend. The six-course chef-curated dinner will feature pairings from Brianne Day (Day Wines), Teddi Fuller (Lushington Wines) and Bethany Kimmel (Color Collector Wines and Soča Wine Shop & Bar).
Tickets and details are available at skamania.com.
