The trans-border partnership that saved the B.C. wine industry
Author: Kurtis Kolt, Sip Magazine’s BC Contributor
The Peace Arch is a monument situated in Peace Arch Park, straddled right on the border separating Canada and the United States, more specifically British Columbia and Washington state. It is a popular border crossing for those living in Vancouver, B.C., and Seattle, when visiting one another’s cities.
The cities, both situated on the West Coast, have a lot in common with one another, from natural aspects like mountainous backdrops and rainy winters, to their populations’ respective penchants for active outdoor pursuits, coffee consistently in hand, and a significant adoration of all things food and drink.
We like to wine and dine, whether dressed to the nines, or comfy in our common athleisure wear aesthetic.
The Peace Arch symbolizes generations of peace between our two nations. For Americans heading north, the inscription atop the arch reads, “Children of a Common Mother,” a reference to our countries’ British heritage, whereas the sentiment seen by Canadians looking up as they venture south reads, “Brethren Dwelling Together in Unity.” Hammering the point home are iron gates permanently mounted open at the base of the arch, with etched words above reading, “may these gates never be closed.”
We are living in complicated, dramatic, and emotional times. Political saber-rattling dominates both the news and the zeitgeist, with the longstanding relationship between our two nations a constant talking point. Much of this talk is high-level, and all-encompassing, but let’s drill down to a local, if not community level. This is where most of our day-to-day experiences occur, after all.
We’ll drill down, and we’ll also rewind a little bit.
Here in British Columbia, we are still reeling from a devastating winter freeze in January 2024 that descended on our Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys, the province’s main winegrowing regions which account for around 90 percent of our planted vineyard acreage. That freeze was so harsh, it was immediately apparent that it would be virtually impossible to eke out any sense of considerable vintage. As days and weeks followed, it was clear the damage rendered most plantings a write-off for the year, with questionable long-term life to be determined beyond that.
In the global world of wine, the Okanagan and Similkameen are tiny, boutique wine regions, as evidenced by the lack of available product on shelves and lists, even for our closest neighbors in Washington and Oregon. Much of B.C.’s wine industry is buoyed by regional wine tourism (thanks, Cascadian pals!), but without the opportunity to produce wine from 2024, not only were many wineries at risk of financial ruin, but without wine to pour, many tasting rooms would shutter, many permanently. Without the attractiveness of wine tourism, the reverberations would have been far and wide, encompassing local restaurants, hotels, and so on.
This simply wasn’t an option.
After many emergency meetings with stakeholders, task forces established, and a good dose of lobbying, the British Columbian government lifted the velvet rope, easing restrictions for wineries to produce 2024 wines from grapes sourced beyond our borders.
While some wineries opted to knock on the doors of our Canadian friends and family in Ontario, along with a few overseas pursuits, the vast number of wineries taking part in what has been dubbed the ‘replacement wine program,’ crossed the 49th parallel to explore opportunities in Washington, Oregon and California.
A few went to old stomping grounds where they spent a harvest or two in the past while coming of age in the biz. Others hit up connections made at industry outings like Pinot Camp or Riesling Rendezvous.
The common refrain was that not only were British Columbian winemakers welcomed and supported by our Pacific Coast neighbors, but that welcome was done so with humility, support, encouragement and respect, allowing us Canucks to make all the calls in the vineyards where our 2024 wines ended up being sourced. It was still a hands-on vintage for B.C. wineries, at the helm of all decisions from canopy management and pick times, to initial pressings and logistics on shipping.
I also have it on good authority that many a frosty ale was also enjoyed amongst the cross-border camaraderie as the sun was setting most nights during harvest, a rare opportunity for winemakers from different regions to hoist a glass or two (or three) together at the busiest time of year.
And, so.
We get to continue our journey north of the border in British Columbia wine country. Mostly because of the support of our Pacific Northwest colleagues. We are thankful to be open for business as we rebuild and refresh, and look forward to pouring these unique and exciting wines in our tasting rooms and in our restaurants. We are also, frankly, relieved. We can hold our heads high and keep going.
We also hope you’ll come up and see us and continue to share this incredible story that has come out of last year’s vintage. We can leave the politics and frustrations for other times and places, and instead relish the fact that we are indeed children of a common mother: a strong community who look out for one another, regardless of where our roots are planted.
Here, a few spots worth your time during a visit, with — of course — a hearty recommendation of what to sip during your stay.
Mt. Boucherie Estate Winery | West Kelowna
Known for helming a swath of vineyards throughout the Okanagan and Similkameen valleys, Mt. Boucherie farms a breadth of fruit, enabling a portfolio of wines from charming, aromatic whites to rich, rugged reds. The Modest Butcher Kitchen + Market on site is a great spot for carnivorous wine country fare, from snacky charcuterie boards to a roster of steak options from sirloins to tomahawks.
What to sip: Mt. Boucherie 2024 Pinot Gris from Yakima, Washington, is awash with guava and apple, carrying textures of lime leaf and lemongrass, with a cheeky pinch of sea salt on the finish.
Quails’ Gate Estate Winery | West Kelowna
An iconic winery in the region for a couple generations now, Quails’ Gate is famous for various bottlings of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, always well-balanced and elegant. They are one of the few Okanagan wineries who never turned up their nose to hybrid grape varieties; ensure any visit is punctuated with a sip or two of their smoky, meaty, cherry-laden Marechal Foch.
What to sip: Quails’ Gate 2024 Field & Flight Rosé is composed of Pinot Noir grapes sourced from Lodi, California. Cherries and strawberries fill initial waves across the palate, while watermelon and nutmeg follow close behind.
Tantalus Vineyards | Kelowna
The hallmark of Tantalus is their 1970s era Old Vines Riesling plantings, originally sourced from clippings courtesy of St. Urbans-Hof in Germany’s storied Mosel region. Fortunately, those vines are well-steeped in the ground and have largely survived that harsh winter freeze without too much permanent damage. The sweeping vista overlooking Lake Okanagan from this sleek LEED-certified winery is a jaw-dropper.
What to sip: Tantalus 2024 Pinot Gris is sourced from Willamette Valley’s own-rooted, organic Stoneridge Vineyard site in Oregon. Mineral-driven citrus fruit is mighty textural, with a splash of green-ish tropical fruit like guava and starfruit making it quite the quaffable gem.
CedarCreek Estate Winery | Kelowna
A longstanding winery with a reputation for wines offering precision and finesse, show up for the B.C.-grown Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, but stay for Home Block Restaurant’s locavore menu with decadent fare including the Crispy Squid with crème fraîche & chili jam, Wild Seabass cooked over charcoal with roasted fennel, bellanita potatoes, orange and dill – and the oh, so, delicious signature Sticky Toffee Pudding
What to sip: CedarCreek 2024 Pinot Gris sourced from Oregon’s Willamette Valley boasts a good lashing of lemon curd and a touch of meringue, all nestled in a lightly-toasted graham wafer crust. Carrying juicy acidity, it’s a decadent wonder.
Terravista Vineyards |Naramata
One of British Columbia’s most innovative wineries, Terravista Vineyards brings varieties like Albariño and Verdejo to Canadian wine country, always mineral-driven and zippy — perfect for West Coast seafood and such. They’re not stopping there; expect other fun varieties like Mencia starting to be bottled form newer plantings in coming years.
What to sip: Terravista 2024 Proyecto Terruño Sparkling Albariño keeps the Albariño tap flowing, as one of a small handful of takes on the variety they’ve played around with from various plots along the coast, this one from Clarksburg, California. A bite of Granny Smith apple, a squeeze of lime, an instant grin.
JoieFarm | Naramata
Year-in, year-out, the aromatic bottlings from Naramata’s JoieFarm are standards on many tables from country to city. Lively whites, a legendary Rosé, and more are always a fit for the winery’s picnic area on the lawn, where hot dogs are sizzling and bocce balls roll by.
What to sip: JoieFarm 2024 Noble Blend is a local legend and a nod to Alsace. This blend of Gewürztraminer and Riesling comes from plantings out of Yakima, Washington, and both Summerland and Naramata in B.C. While this international blend may seem unorthodox in its provenance, take away a geopolitical border, and you have a tight little snapshot of regional terroir. Pomelo, lemon balm, a dollop of marmalade and a spoonful of orange sherbet.
Poplar Grove Winery | Naramata
Perched on the edge of the Naramata Bench overlooking the lake and the city of Penticton — pristine, fruit-driven single-varietal wines are the specialty here, particularly enjoyed with Chef Stacy Johnson’s restaurant menu which reads like an atlas of local growers, fishers and foragers.
What to sip: Poplar Grove 2024 ‘Cascadia Series’ Sauvignon Blanc from Washington state has a crowd-pleasing style: it’s ultra-peachy with mango and passionfruit, with a good smattering of basil and sorrel, and some lovely beeswax-y texture.
Blasted Church Vineyards | Okanagan Falls
Winemaker Evan Saunders isn’t afraid to step into uncharted territory; he’s been responsible for hilariously rare varieties like Lagrein and Teroldego being shepherded from local plantings with varietal character intact, yet still harboring a distinctly B.C. mineral-driven, fruity profile. That’s where he usually plays, while winery classics like Hatfield’s Fuse, his perennially aromatic and tasty white blend, please the masses.
What to sip: Blasted Church 2024 Hatfield’s Fuse keeps the dream alive but just hailing from a stone’s throw south. Washington’s Horse Heaven Hills AVA brings Pinot Gris, Viognier and Riesling that dazzle the palate with young coconut, spiced orange, nutmeg, green grape, lemongrass and a fun little lashing of marzipan.
Bartier Bros. Vineyard & Winery | Oliver
Winemaker Michael Bartier is one of the good guys, a local legend with encyclopedic knowledge of local wine country. When stopping by the winery, look for any last remaining bottlings of his old vines Semillon, those vines (among others in his home vineyard) unfortunately perished in that January freeze. Ever resilient, he is rebuilding, and if anyone can coax incredible fruit from local soils, this is the guy.
What to sip: Bartier Bros. 2024 ‘Pristine’ Rosé. Why go all the way to Provence, when we can enjoy this zesty, nuanced Columbia Valley pour? Predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon with small splashes of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Riesling; think red plum, black currant, basil and a dash of white pepper.
Le Vieux Pin | Oliver
Winemaker Severine Pinte is widely admired by colleagues, sommeliers and local wine enthusiasts for her deft hand with beautifully guiding Okanagan Syrah into the bottle. The winter was hard on her vines, so the fearless replanting has begun, giving so many of us a sigh of relief. The local industry would simply not be the same without her hands on that grape.
What to sip: Le Vieux Pin 2024 Cinsault sees Pinte sticking with a Rhone variety, but pulling this edition from Wahluke Slope, Washington. Oh-so-pretty on the nose with lavender and cardamom, the palate has a juicy crunch of Italian plum, Rainier cherry and hibiscus tea.
Orofino Winery | Cawston
For over 20 years, John and Virgina Weber have been farming this land, and have been faithful stewards of everything from geeky, precise Rieslings, to natty (and clean) skin-contact Muscats, to a broad-shouldered Bordeaux blend dubbed Beleza. The lucky ones among us get to sip these wines while spending a day or two at their bright and airy Vineyard Suites at the edge of their stunner of a home vineyard.
What to sip: Orofino 2024 ‘Few & Far Between’ Chenin Blanc from Washington’s Ancient Lakes AVA is the result of turning lemons into lemonade. John had never had the opportunity to play around with the variety, so took it upon himself to look at the cards he was dealt and stretch his wings. A basket of apples and pears, a wedge of brioche, a kiss of honey.
