Touring with Tori: A Taste of Lubbock’s Wine Scene
Ever since I started my career in the wine industry nearly 10 years ago, I’ve heard whispers of “Texas wine.” As a born-and-raised Californian and loyal California wine drinker, Texas wine seemed like a far off phenomena.
On top of the sheer disbelief, I’d heard pretty evenly mixed reviews — some swearing by the wine, others giving a “it’s exactly what you’d expect” side-eye squint. As I’ve progressed in my wine drinker’s journey (I now drink wine from Oregon and Washington), I’ve become more and more curious about wine from the Lone Star State. I just had to find out for myself.
Stepping off the plane in Lubbock, Texas, two things became extremely apparent: It’s home to Texas Tech University and the landscape includes long sandy colored planes for as far as the eye can see. (Queue The Chick’s ‘Wide Open Spaces’.) It was later that I learned that all this space does not only make good real estate for prairie dogs, but also for vineyards! The quaint college town is nestled in the eastern edge of the Texas High Plains AVA — the second largest AVA in the state. The over 8 million acres planted are home to some of our favorite French and Italian varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sangiovese and Dolcetto. The plains sit atop 3,000 to 4,000 feet above sea level, nearly twice the elevation of our beloved Red Mountain AVA in Washington. With hot days and cooler nights, plus a combination of low fertility soil and good drainage, there’s just enough stressors in the environment to create good growing conditions for the fruit.
So there’s at least grapes in Lubbock! But is it all that different from our wine at home? Short answer? No. (But also yes.)
Llano Estacado Winery is one of the oldest in Texas. The estate is tucked between a cotton field and vineyards. The walls are littered with wine awards from all over the state. The production facility looks like any other I’ve seen. The wine portfolio? Versatile. Their Albariño? Excellent! Their red blend? Pretty good! So where’s all the hangup coming from? When we think of Texas, we think of hot weather, tan terrain and cattle. As general wine consumers, I think we often forget about all the other microclimates and terroir that the most unassuming places can offer, though the growing conditions may not be as fruitful as our Walla Walla or Willamette valleys.
In the words of Kim McPherson himself, winemaker/owner of McPherson Cellars and graduate of UC Davis’ enology and viticulture program, “Texas wine is more winemaking than it is fruit.”
The Pacific Northwest is spoiled with great wine. We’re extremely lucky to be in a region that produces lush, vibrant fruit. I constantly hear Washington winemakers talk about “how hard it is to make bad wine from really good grapes.” So to travel to a location that’s completely flipped that narrative on its head is special. When your produce by no means dons the label of “cream of the crop,” it is up to the winemaker to make up the difference and create something truly enjoyable.
Would I travel all the way to Lubbock for wine again? Maybe when plane ticket prices go down. And absolutely for a barbecue (and to say hello to the prairie dogs). Would I order Texas High Plains AVA wine online and get it shipped to me? Heck yeah. Texas has redeeming qualities. It gave us Beyonce. It has Austin, rodeos, wide open spaces and, most importantly, budget friendly wine that can be shipped. I tried wines I loved and wines I could do without. Just like anywhere else. The Lone Star State offered me a great opportunity to explore new production cultures and growing methods. And I’ll happily take any chance I can get to expand my palate and vino knowledge.
And from a fulltime chef’s perspective, “what grows together, goes together” — if you love a good steak or barbecue, why not try a Texas red to pair with and find out for yourself?
