Scott and Vicki Nokleby decided to make a mid-life career change and move to the Walla Walla Valley in 2020. Opening a winery was not part of the plan.
After an exhaustive search they found the perfect spot and purchased a farm located in the Blue Mountain foothills near Milton-Freewater, Oregon. The property included a 17-acre vineyard planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Viognier grapes. It was also one of the few vineyards in the Walla Walla appellation growing Chardonnay. “We thought we could be grape farmers and sell our grapes and maybe make wine down the road,” Scott Nokleby says.
Much to their surprise, when they moved in, they discovered 12 tons of grapes hanging on the vines, ready to be harvested. Not wanting the fruit to drop and rot, they scurried to find a picking crew, a place to process the grapes and a winemaker to produce the wine.
And just like that, Mongata Estate Winery was born.
“I think the universe presented itself as an opportunity to make wine and provided us with all the help we needed to do it. So we just jumped in,” Scott says. “The wine community rallied around us, helping us hire a picking crew and borrow the equipment we needed.”
The Noklebys were introduced to Brian Rudin, the winemaker at Canvasback. (He’s now at Echolands.) Rudin was familiar with the vineyard, thought it was an interesting project, and offered to make Mongata’s 2020 vintage wines. Peter Devison, owner/winemaker at Devison Vintners took over in 2021 and has been making their wines since.
The setting at Mongata is breathtaking. The vineyard is in a narrow, deep, fractured basalt canyon that opens to majestic views of the Blue Mountains. While technically not in the Rocks District appellation, there are no shortage of cobblestones throughout the vineyard.
Being adjacent to the South Fork of the Walla Walla River means the vines reach the water table and self-water. Having easy access to water causes the canopy to grow vigorously. This requires constant management to ensure the grapes receive enough sun exposure to ripen. “We’re running constantly to keep the canopy trimmed and keep it under control. It’ll turn into a jungle out there in a few weeks, if we’re not touching it all the time,” Scott says.
Visiting Mongata in the summer allows one to relax and linger on a patio surrounded by the vineyard and canyon walls. For an elevated food and wine adventure, Mongata offers a picnic basket experience that includes charcuterie and delectable homemade spreads, roasted veggies and baked goods. The food is paired with Mongata wine and can be enjoyed at a table in the vineyard or by the gurgling bank of the river.
“We didn’t get into this to become a big winery. This is the hardest thing we’ve ever done. We had no idea what was coming at us,” Scott says. “Being out in the vineyard is hard work. But there’s nothing like being there, especially around sunset. It’s just me, my clippers, the crickets, frogs and peace and quiet. I love doing it.”
The wine, setting, estate vineyard, hospitality and food experience make Mongata a hidden gem worth seeking out when visiting Walla Walla.
Photos by Richard Duval Images
