Upon pushing open the door and stepping into Marjorie Restaurant (perched at the corner of 14th and Union on Seattle’s Capitol Hill), first-time diners and longtime patrons alike are welcomed with bursts of warmth and color in a wide variety of formats.
Painted chairs in varying shades of turquoise, coral, tangerine, glittery red and crisp white are tucked around the metal tables that line the cozy single-room space. An array of art prints and portraits in all styles adorn the walls. The wine list, menu and cocktail selection are published on neon pink, yellow and orange sheets of printer paper, the type you might otherwise find as a component in a brightly colored craft project. Rectangles of colorful fabric decorate the high ceiling, while twinkling strands of white lights line the bar shelves and roll-up garage doors. A lively mix of conversations between friends, families, coworkers and couples overlaps with an upbeat soundtrack that tends toward the jazzy.
But it’s not the ambiance that’s of utmost importance here—it’s the hostess mindset. The inspiration for the restaurant comes from owner Donna Moodie’s mother, Marjorie, who Moodie recalls as an impeccable hostess with a knack for cultivating “a diverse mix of friends, family and guests with her unique brand of gracious hospitality.” Channeling her spirit, Moodie seeks to create the same sort of atmosphere at Marjorie. “I wouldn’t do a full Jamaican experience, because I would be bored, and a real American restaurant experience would be inauthentic,” Moodie says. Marjorie “is somewhere in the middle.”
For most diners, the first taste of this theme comes in a plate of “Miss Marjorie’s Steel Drum Plantains.” So delectable are the crisp, cracker-like appetizer that in 2013 they were Kickstarted to become a nationally available brand that has garnered attention from as far afield as the New York Times. Accompanied by a scoop of roasted pineapple guacamole topped with pico de gallo, delectable becomes divine. And if you’re cocktail-minded, you can’t go wrong with a Trenchtown to pair with the plantains. Crisp and cool, it’s a tropical take on a mule drink, enriched with the flavor profiles of Appleton rum and fresh coconut water.
Don’t go wild on the plantains—there’s plenty to come. In the kitchen, Moodie’s Caribbean sensibilities meet chef Zephyr Paquette’s farmers market-driven creativity, meaning a seasonally-inspired menu that’s constantly evolving. Dishes are fresh, unique and as colorful as their surroundings. One such example is the beet salad, as much a feast for the eyes as for the taste buds: pink-orange and maroon beets from Local Roots Farm are accented by creamy chèvre, golden Marcona almonds and bright green sprigs of fresh herbs. Another example is the wildly popular buratta, accented by kale, orange, butternut squash and vibrant spices.
Beyond the first course, tasty seafood selections like sea-salty Hama Hama oysters (a perfect match for Prosecco), king crab curry (“sexy,” as described by Paquette), and smoked Arctic char (radish, crème fraîche, pomegranate) are dotted between hearty plates like teres major steak (horseradish whipped potato, braised greens, bone marrow butter), semolina gnocchi (winter tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella), and even a classic tikka masala. Excellent pairings abound thanks a thoughtful West Coast plus Europe list of wines and bubblies interspersed with the occasional specialty beer, sake or cider. In particular, the tannic, Tuscan-born Appasisimento from Casa Vinironia beautifully offsets the richness of the gnocchi.
Once you’ve downed every last bite of your entrée, you might think you’re too full for dessert. Luckily, this is the sort of place where staying an extra hour as you let your dinner settle is both acceptable and encouraged. This works out well, because the brioche bread pudding soaked in bourbon caramel and cream definitely deserves your consideration. Pair with coffee or a slow-sipping Jamaican rum.
As flames burn low in colorful glass candle-holders, Moodie makes rounds of the restaurant, clearing tables, delivering after-dinner drinks and connecting with each table in a relaxed, familiar way. For having owned Marjorie since 2002, it’s clear that Moodie continues to take her day-in, day-out role as hostess in all seriousness—and it’s equally clear that diners appreciate the sincerity. Even as checks are signed and coats are donned, patrons still wear the relaxed smiles that they did throughout the evening. These are the faces of diners who not only enjoyed themselves thoroughly, but will be back to Marjorie again soon.
