The Pacific Northwest has ties to Scandinavia going back several generations—early loggers, builders and fishermen helped shaped some of the area’s culture, lifestyle and drinking habits. Especially when it comes to aquavit. The spirit most commonly associated with Norway, Sweden and Denmark was once exclusively available as an import. Today, thanks to the craft distilling movement and some dedicated distillers, great aquavit is being made locally. And area bartenders know how to wrestle this assertive and pungent spirit into a flavorful and balanced cocktail. With the upcoming Norwegian Constitution Day on May 17th, and it’s parade and celebration in Seattle’s Ballard neighborhood, now is a great time to acquaint yourself with this distinctive spirit.
Over at Old Ballard Liquor Co., owner and distiller Lexi (first name, like Madonna) likes to first educate visitors about the history and tradition of the drink. “Aquavit in Scandinavia is typically a food pairing liquor,” Lexi says. “You get a lot of that woodsy distilled caraway flavor. It’s very savory, never sweet.” Her winter aquavit release, titled Riktig, is meant to be paired with the heavy, salty, wintery foods to match the strong caraway flavor.
Aquavit is considered a digestif and palate cleanser, something you sip on during a meal. “The Swedes say aquavit helps the fish swim down into your stomach,” Lexi explains. The spring aquavit from Old Ballard Liquor Co., named Älskar, was recently released and is meant to be paired with lighter, spring foods and shellfish such as mussels and oysters.
Unlike other spirits, aquavit does not have many restrictions regarding production. Most aquavit producers, like Lexi, look to their Scandinavian predecessors for inspiration, but have the freedom to flavor their aquavit as they like. Typically, a neutral-flavored spirit is flavored with herbs and spices which may include caraway, coriander, anise, fennel, citrus peels, grains of paradise, among others. Some are aged in wood, but many are just bottled and ready for use.
One such example is Krogstad Aquavit from Portland’s House Spirits. This aquavit is lighter in color than an aged aquavit like the Riktig Aquavit from Old Ballard Liquor Co. It also has a more assertive black licorice flavor thanks to flavorings that include star anise. At Liberty Bar in Seattle’s Capitol Hill neighborhood, owner/founder Andrew Friedman chose this aquavit for use in a crisp and refreshing cocktail he created on my last visit. Imagine a classic Pimm’s Cup cocktail, but more savory. There was cucumber, bell pepper and lemon juice pressed into a mixing glass, then shaken vigorously with aquavit, triple sec, simple syrup and bitters. This pink-hued cocktail looked innocent, but packed a punch.
Over at the Walrus and the Carpenter back in Ballard, bar manager Marley Tomic-Beard likes the challenge of working with a complex spirit like aquavit. “Aquavit is a spirit that can be dramatically transformed by the ingredients it is paired with in a cocktail,” she says. “For example, it can be robust and complex as in the Trident Cocktail or delicately savory, as in the Astrid cocktail listed below. I gravitate towards aged aquavit, like Old Ballard Liquor Co.’s Riktig, for it savory, toastier, and darker flavors of caraway, cardamon, black pepper and barrel nuances.”
Whether you drink your aquavit chilled and served neat, sipped alongside a meal as Lexi suggests, or mixed into one of the cocktails below, raise a glass, make eye contact with your drinking companions, and say “skål,” the Old Norse word for “cheers.”
The Astrid, by Marley Tomic-Beard of the Walrus and the Carpenter
2 ounces Old Ballard Liquor Co. Riktig Aquavit
¾ ounce Cocchi Americano
¼ ounce Riesling wine syrup
2 dashes of Regans’ Orange Bitters
Mix all ingredients in a mixing glass, stir. Strain into a chilled coupe or martini glass. Garnish with a lemon twist.
Flight 926, by Andrew Friedman of Liberty Bar
1 small handful chopped red bell peppers
2 cucumber wheels
½ ounce fresh lemon juice
2 ounces of the Krogstad Aquavit
½ ounce Giffard’s triple sec
¼ ounce simple syrup, or to taste
2 dashes Regans’ Orange Bitters
*Cocktail photo courtesy of Liberty Bar
In a mixing glass add bell peppers, cucumber wheels and lemon juice. Press to extract juices. Add aquavit, triple sec, simple syrup, and bitters. Fill with ice, cover and shake shake shake. Double-strain into a cold bucket, garnish with a lemon peel & serve.
