Absinthe, the high-proof, herbal elixir had its heyday in the late 1800s and early 1900s, particular among artists, painters and writers in European cities like Paris. It was eventually banned in the United States until around 2007. But absinthe is back! Along with the resurgence and renewed interest in classic cocktails like the Corpse Reviver #2 and the Sazerac, absinthe is being produced around the world, including several producers in the Pacific Northwest.
In this year’s Best of the Northwest issue, Sip Northwest‘s panel of judges awarded the best herbal spirit award to Wild Card Absinthe produced in Bend, Oregon by Oregon Spirit Distillers. Black licorice “BOMB” best describes this absinthe. Wild Card is infused with wormwood, fennel, anise, along with other herbs and spices. It gets its natural green hue from hyssop, melissa and cardamom. And clocking in at around 125 proof, it also packs a punch.
Brad Irwin, owner and distiller at Oregon Spirits Distillers (OSD), has been making absinthe almost from the time he established OSD in 2010. The former bartender admits he was terrible at making cocktails, but was always enthusiastic about spirits, later becoming a Certified Specialist of Spirits (CSS). OSD also produces three whiskeys, a vodka, genever (Belgian-style gin) and spiced rum at their distillery located in a warehouse strip just northeast of downtown Bend.
On a recent visit, I had a chance to chat with Irwin, while staff mixologist Nichole Rushton mixed up some Absinthe Sours. The cocktail includes simple syrup, which sweetens up the drink, plus some lemon juice which highlights the spirit’s anise notes.
Rushton also demonstrated the traditional louche technique, which originated in France. A glass of absinthe is filled about a quarter of the way with absinthe (roughly two ounces). An absinthe spoon is set over the glass, with a sugar cube on top of the spoon. The glass is then set below the spigot of an absinthe fountain. Cold water is slowly added to the drink—about four to five ounces total, dissolving the sugar cube and causing the absinthe to turn opaque as it dilutes.
Absinthe Sour, by Oregon Spirits Distillers
1 ounce Absinthe
1 ounce simple syrup
1 ounce lemon juice
1/2 ounce egg white
Combine ingredients in shaker filled with ice, cover and shake vigorously for at least one minute until frothy. Strain liquid and most of the foam into a cocktail glass.
