Amaro liqueurs—bitter digestifs, typically associated with and made in Italy—have soared in popularity. Fernet Branca and Underberg are great post-meal tummy tamers, while others, such as Cynar, Amaro Nonino and Averna make appearances in craft cocktails. broVo Spirits—produced by Mhairi Voelsgen in Woodinville, Washington—teamed up with bartenders across the country to introduce a line of amaro-style liqueurs handcrafted for cocktails. “We have made 21 different amari, all authored by bartenders,” Voelsgen says. “They really represent the palate and terroir of a city. We’ve done versions in Chicago, San Francisco, Atlanta and of course, Seattle.”
Amari are flavored with a variety of roots, herbs and spices. Bitter and strong flavors come from roots and barks such as cinchona, angelica and gentian. Floral and herbal aromas are present thanks to everything from anise and ginger to juniper and thyme. And citrus notes come from the addition of citrus peels or herbs like lemon verbena to mint. The herbs, roots and spices are macerated with neutral spirits and aged in casks or bottles. Most amaro producers keep their exact formulation a secret, with some recipes dating back over a hundred years.
It isn’t just amari broVo is bringing to the marketplace, however. “Last year we released our vermouth line, because bartenders asked for it,” Voelsgen says. “We just released a spiced cherry liqueur called Boomerang, authored by Micah Melton, Beverage Director at The Aviary in Chicago. And we are finishing a falernum called Lucky authored by Danny Shapiro of Scofflaw and Slippery Slope in Chicago. Both of them saw a need and convinced me that we should make something to fill it. After a bartender suggests a product idea, we research the idea and the other products that are available and decide if we want to try and make one.”
In addition to an ingredient for cocktails, many people love to drink amari neat, or, like Voelsgen, on the rocks. She also suggests making a quick Manhattan with it. “[Replace] the vermouth with amaro for a bolder flavor or make a toddy with just whiskey and hot water,” she says. At The Westy in southwest Seattle, co-owners Paul Ritums and Jean-Pierre Vidican created the Admiral’s Relief, a hot toddy style cocktail made with broVo’s Amaro No. 6.
Admiral’s Relief
Makes 1 cocktail
1 ounce Atlantico Platino Rum
1/2 ounce broVo Amaro No. 6
1/4 ounce spiced simple syrup
1/4 ounce lemon juice
5 oounces hot water
Honey Whipped Cream (recipe below)
Combine rum, amaro, simple, and lemon juice into a warmed snifter. Add the hot water. Top off with the honey-whipped cream. Garnish with wide orange peel pierced with 3 cloves. Light clove with lighter and set atop the whipped cream.
Honey Whipped Cream
Makes enough for 4-5 drinks
2 ounces 1:1 Honey syrup
8 ounces heavy whipping cream
Combine and shake until thickened.
