Some things are best left unexplained. Like how top tier culinary industry professionals with wide ranging and divergent histories and backgrounds find themselves on a beach in a rainforest on the farthest side of Canada’s est coast. Meet, probably over surf, or seafood or work—three of the top reasons to up and move to rustic and remote Tofino, BC. And create and execute a plan for a beautiful, humble, art and nature intrinsic Tofitian-inspired restaurant. The credo is simple and honest: a reflection of the space. To honor the ingredients enough to let them speak for themselves, and create the kind of dishes you want to share with friends.
Wolf in the Fog has emerged as one of Canada’s top new restaurants (and it’s not just me who thinks so). En Route has named the sea-kissed joint one of the top 30 new restaurants of the year and opened up the voting for the People’s Choice Award. Chef Nick Nutting is used to the spotlight, though he does his best to sidestep and share the glow. Nutting was most recently at The Pointe Restaurant, the highly acclaimed restaurant in Tofino’s Wickaninnish Inn. It was there that he really came to know and understand the area’s ingredients, indigenous ways and local producers, and study exhaustively the art and skill of rainforest/Pacific foraging. From the oceanfront Relais & Chateau resort to the “downtown” Tofino corner location of Wolf in the Fog was a dream long in the making—one he grew and realized with like-minded colleagues/friends from The Wick.
Business Manager Andre McGillivray is no stranger to BC’s food and beverage industry, or the inside of the province’s best restaurants (Boneta, CinCin, Lumiere, Feenie’s and Chambar a smattering of his successes). Jorge Barandiaran rules the front of house and also the title of “Wine Guy,” calmly and warmly seating tables of surfers next to families next to visiting chefs. His wine list favors unique bottles over glasses, with prices and interesting selections that will make it easy to pick a bottle or few for your table. Bar Manager Hailey Pasemko’s innovative cocktail program is inspired by her love of the West Coast and pays homage to it. Foraged ingredients, seasonal touches and house-made tinctures, syrups and elixirs are worth a drive across the Island alone.
The atmosphere, as you would expect, reflects the simple beauty of the outdoors. Large windows welcome the daylight and look out over the street and over to the Pacific, a couple of blocks away. Upstairs, in the restaurant, a large communal wood table centers the room and reflects the overarching theme of sharing goodness with friends. The large patio seats fresh-air diners amidst the trees, and a lounge/bar side provides low couches and chairs for après-surf camaraderie and storytelling. Local artists have given life to the space and texture to the meal. Downstairs at The Den, you can take breakfast pastries, lattes or fresh sandwiches during the day, or enjoy a seat at the bar and a pint of Tofino Brewing Company until the wee hours of morning.
As mentioned, Chef Nutting’s menus are centered on food to be shared—whether its his team sharing a balanced, seasonal entrée from the local waters with you (don’t miss the Tofino Salmon), sharing forkfuls from a few small plates between friends (delish pork belly with squid and cucumber), or splitting some of the platters—meant for two. I can’t recommend enough the Spanish Picnic, a pulse-quickening platter of fragrantcod, octopus, mussels, romesco sauce and tomato salad, served with chunks of fresh foccacia for sopping. I dreamt about it for days after; it was nearly enough to make me drive 5 hours from my home base of Victoria for, on a whim. And I would have done it too, save for Pasemko’s wickedly delicious foraged cocktails would have made it imperative to find a hotel (or camp on the beach). Her punch bowls are particularly tempting—like the Spiced Rye Punch, for up to six people—a handsome blend of rye, five spice, lemon, sode and oaked bitters.
One of Canada’s top new restaurants? Absolutely. Worth traveling to the far side of the continent for? Definitely. Let’s just say it’s as unexpected, special and memorable as coming across a wolf in the fog.
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