I appreciate restaurants that feed numerous receptors; not only taste and smell, the most primary, and atmosphere, a vital secondary factor, but intellectually as well. Restaurants that tie theme/food/drink/scene/design/clients together so seamlessly and organically as to appear inherently natural are quite rare. In Portland, NE Fremont’s Smallwares struck me as one such rare restaurant.
Let’s start with the name. Smallwares = small plates put out by experienced chef Johanna Ware. Dynamite name! Ware puts her hard-earned experience at New York’s Momofuku and Public into opening her restaurant two years ago, and into its proudly self-described “inauthentic Asian” cuisine. Drawing influence from Korean, Thai and Japanese cuisines, she has created a deliciously unusual and eclectic menu that merges these complex flavors into elegant but approachable palate-pleasing creations like sea urchin, chorizo aioli, mitsuba over bacon fat rice cake, or fried kale, candied bacon, fish sauce and mint. The 40 seat restaurant hums and buzzes like the perfect party, night after night, with friendly diners in couples and groups sharing plates, stories and bottles of sake or wine.
Befitting the mixed-heritage menu, the beverage list is equally global. A chic and smartly curated list of sake, cocktails, beer and wine is available in Smallwares, as well as the adjacent bar, Barwares (also dynamite name!). In contrast to the bright, windowed and colorful Smallwares, Barwares beckons the night—lantern-lit with darker walls, a very well stocked and kitschy colorful backbar, wood hewn bartop, fireplace and barseats that are the place of envy. How could they not be, with fragrant chicken lollipops with Sriracha mayo alongside Robert & Bernard Plageoles Mauzac Nature (my pick).
Now you don’t have to wait until the evening or into the late night to enjoy Ware’s wares—they’ve just opened for weekend brunch.
Smallwares || 4605 N.E. Fremont Street || smallwarespdx.com
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