Outside of the pub, taproom and garden, beer is big in the kitchen. Walk into a seafood restaurant and you’re bound to see a bowl of steamers, either clams or mussels, in a hop-based beer bath. The yeasty quality and wide range of aromas provide a strong backdrop to all fish, whose essence tends to be delicate. With flavor profiles of beer swinging from dark and hoppy to light and citrus-like, it is versatile in recipes and can show up in any course.
On the light side, ales like Czech-style pilsner, German-influenced kölsch or Belgian saison work especially well in batters and doughs. Of course, beer-battered fish filets are no surprise, but beer batters need not end there. Crepes are delicious when made with spiked batter—the carbonation lightens the weight of the flour used (be it all-purpose or a heavier choice like buckwheat) and the addition ups the heartiness, bringing out earthy tones.
Beer can also be used in place of water for most any bread recipe. Adding lager or lighter ale to focaccia lends a heady, deep flavor that’s even better with a rich, cheesy topping. Northwest-based food blogger Jackie Dodd writes The Beeroness blog and uses beer in her apple pie recipe, replacing the ice-cold water typically called for in a pie dough recipe. She serves each slice with a dollop of creamy mascarpone cheese infused with pale ale—the bitter quality of some ales helps to cut through the richness and complements the sugar in the apples.
And while the flavor can often be subtle, light ales do veer into spicy territory with a zingy quality that can be harnessed to marinate meat. Chef Mark Fuller of Ma’Ono Fried Chicken and Whisky in Seattle uses a combination of nearby Georgetown Brewing Lucille India pale ale with good old-fashioned Rainer for his seven-day corned beef brine. “Adding the Rainer helps to temper the hops in the IPA,” Fuller says, noting that both help to tenderize and flavor the meat. The resulting corned beef is served at brunch as hash, alongside poached eggs.
As with marinating, light beers are excellent choices for braising as well. Their delicate body gently flavors the liquid and keeps things light in summer, even when using a rich piece of meat. Braised short ribs are melt-in-your-mouth tender and served over smashed potatoes with mustard and horseradish sauce at Fork Restaurant in Boise, where the popular dish has been on the menu since the doors opened in 2011. “We like Payette [Brewing] pale ale because it is hearty enough to contribute [flavor] to the dish but not heavy enough to weigh it down like a dark beer would,” says chef Cameron Lumsden.
And while restaurants tend to be meat-focused, light beer also provides an excellent steaming liquid for seasonal vegetables. Pour a half-inch of beer into a shallow pan and bring to boil. From there, add asparagus spears, green beans, peas or even chopped kale to the pot and cover until cooked through and tender. Adding a pat of butter to the residual steaming liquid results in a velvety sauce fit for praise.
Whether starting, making or ending a meal, light ales can and should be a pantry staple. And, as with any worthwhile kitchen project, remember the cardinal rule—one for the pot, and one for the chef.
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Beer-Battered Salmon Fritters
By Amy Pennington
Serves || 6-8 as an appetizer
As the season pulls from summer to fall, this recipe for beer-infused fritters is a great way to change things up. Small pieces of salmon are folded into a thick batter made with crispy cornmeal and beer. The fizziness from the beer keeps batter light and adds an earthy flavor. Select a light ale, like the Double Mountain Brewery kölsch from Hood River, Oregon.
INGREDIENTS
½ cup yellow cornmeal, finely ground
½ cup all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
½ cup Double Mountain Brewery kölsch
2 large eggs, beaten
1 jalapeño, finely diced
¼ cup green onions, chopped
¼ cup cilantro, chopped
1 pound of salmon, cut into small cubes
Vegetable oil for frying, about 1 to 2 cups
DIRECTIONS
In a medium sized bowl, add and mix cornmeal, flour, baking powder, salt and pepper until combined. Add beer and eggs, stirring until just combined. Add in jalapeño, green onions, cilantro and salmon, then fold in together.
In a medium, deep-sided pot, add a 1-inch layer of oil and heat over medium heat until hot, about 350°. Using a large spoon, scoop up 1 to 2 tablespoons of batter and drop it in the oil. Continue until pan is full, being sure not to overcrowd the pan. Turn fritters as they brown. When golden on all sides, about 7 to 8 minutes total, remove fritters from pot with a slotted spoon and set on paper towels or a paper bag to drain. Serve with wedges of lemon, if so desired.
