In terms of Italian comfort food, Iorio Restaurant takes the cake. Quite literally—Chef Christopher Thompson’s flourless chocolate cake with vanilla gelato will make your taste buds tingle with appreciation.
Whether you’re looking to spend a day refining your skills in the kitchen under the eyes of a talented chef, or you’re already well aware that not even a class could prevent your lasagna from blackening and would prefer to sit back and leave the cooking in the hands of a professional—Iorio is the place to go. Established nine years ago as a simple storefront off of Hawthorne by Hilary and Christopher Thompson, Iorio was born as an institution dedicated to Chef Thompson’s great-grandmother Julia Iorio, that’s sole purpose was to provide cooking lessons in a family-like environment. It was later on that the dining room developed and those with less than desirable skills in the kitchen (myself included) were finally granted the luxury of experiencing a mouthful of Italy in Portland.
After pulling open the heavy doors, one is immediately engulfed in thick aromatic waves of pleasure: garlic, chicken, and freshly baked bread intertwine in beautiful harmony that results in a stomach growling with anticipation. The deep wine colored walls, small floor plan, dark wood furnishings and dim lighting create a romantic ambiance that welcome couples as well as friends and family in for an enjoyable evening.
The menu resembles that of most typical Portland boutique restaurants in that it boasts of locally grown ingredients and various gluten-free options available upon request. Daily “specials” change based on the freshest catches or finds of the day and the extensive wine list, which also is a great representation of the marriage between Oregon and Italy (along with selections from the rest of the West Coast and Spain), changes often in accordance to what pairs best with what is on the menu. Not sure if your knowledge of wine stretches into the Frappatos of Sicily or Aglianicos of Campania? Do not hesitate to ask one of the members of the staff for their advice; chances are they would be more than happy to share their expert opinion on the matter.
Before I go any further, I do have one disclaimer—walking into this restaurant you must realize that your relationship is going to be with your taste buds, and not your waistline. You cannot leave this restaurant without ordering the calamari, it is fried to perfection and once dipped in the preserved lemon aioli is simply euphoric. Over half the menu details a dish with house-made pasta drowning in creamy white, red or rosa (a combination of white and red) sauces that will have carb addicts relapsing while the carnivorous folk will be pleased with the options of slow roasted pig, preserved lemon chicken breast or a dry aged rib eye. Personally, the waiter’s description of the daily ravioli is what perked my ears: butternut squash, caramelized onions, ricotta, Parmesan and Gorgonzola cheeses bursting within house-made raviolis and blanketed under a rosa crema sauce—yes, please! The impeccable, hot collision of sweet and savory put my self-control to the test when the time came that my stomach was full and yet my plate was still not empty.
The dessert menu is laden with enticing sweets, but for those more in need of a gentler, after dinner drink, go to the signature cocktail list. The Limoncello, a shot of Limoncello paired with Prosecco served in a champagne flute, will offer a sparkly, sweet nightcap whereas those more interested in a tart drink should order the Pomegranate Fizz, a combination of Gin and Campari that claims to be the perfect apéritif.
In a city lacking a “Little Italy,” tourists and townies can make their way over to 9th and Hawthorne to enjoy the simplistic ambiance that complements the less than simplistic Italian culinary prowess. And if you can make it through this meal in the warm, dimly lit restaurant without slipping into a food coma by the end of it, I applaud you.
Iorio Restaurant || 912 SE Hawthorne Blvd, Portland || ioriorestaurant.com
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