In the space formerly home to the now shuttered Patanegra, Ataula has taken up the tapas torch from the previous occupants and makes it shine brightly anew.
Before moving to Portland in 2012, Barcelona-born chef Jose Chesa earned his chops at several Michelin-starred restaurants, including L’Arpège in Paris, Can Fabes in Barcelona and the defunct Fleur de Sel in New York City.
He brings a refined touch to his native, traditionally rustic Catalonian cuisine. Salt cod croquetas and smoked piquillo aioli dipping sauce, for example, arrive perfectly packaged in porcelain egg trays, packing a one-two punch of bold, yet subtly balanced flavors. Nuestras Bravas are a labor of well-executed technique, but lack none of the soul: the potatoes are first cooked sous vide for six hours, then sliced, stacked and finally fried to order. Topped with milk aioli and herbaceous brava sauce, the bite-sized morsels practically collapse on the palate from sheer tenderness.
The menu has plenty of other Tapas and Per Picar (tiny bites) to fill a belly full, but it would be a mistake not to save room for Chesa’s showstopping Paellas + Rossejat (toasted noodles)—if not just for one soupçon of crunchy, toasty bomba rice encrusting the bottom of the paella pan. Available in seafood, chicken chorizo and vegetarian versions, each serves two diners generously.
Behind the bar, a short list of house Cocteles kindle the appetite. El Greco Tonica is a spirited riff on the timeless G&T, with Dolin Blanc and cinchona-bark tonic lending a refreshing bite. Wines are by and large Spanish (and mostly under $40 by the bottle), plus an international selection of beers and cider.
Roughly translated, Ataula means “at the table,” and that’s a good place to be when contemporary Spanish food and drink is this good.
Ataula || 1818 NW 23rd Place || Portland || (503) 894-8904
