Jimi Hendrix was quoted once saying: “Music is my religion.” The Washington state-native was a guitar deity of few words—with many accolades and awards to make up for it—and although his career span was stunted with an untimely death in 1970, Hendrix’s limited, spiritual dialogue and music made an impact within and outside of the music industry. McMenamin’s Crystal Hotel in Portland seemed to feel that influence and practices the same religion, with design and décor inspired by not only the world of music and its practicing creed but the music across the street at the legendary Crystal Ballroom, where, allegedly, a young, apprenticing Hendrix played with Little Richard’s band in the ’60s.
In classic McMenamin’s fashion, the hotel/pub group restored and revamped the now 100-year-old music venue and felt the harmony was necessary to keep up to beat along the road at the restored and revamped Crystal Hotel (previously known as The Majestic). With 51 guestrooms, each inspired and designed after a song or performance at the Crystal Ballroom, music is in the hotel’s bones.
The hotel is on the National Register of Historic Places, and respectfully holds to its original stature from its 1911 build—with minimalistic modern updates. The lobby is small and unassuming, with one elevator and a stairwell up to the guestrooms and two entrances into the Zeus Café, the first floor restaurant that has an illustrious history of its own.
Modest in pricing—a blessing from the room and board gods in this part of downtown Portland—you can take your pick from one of the nine king rooms with private bathrooms or free your spirit and open your mind with one of the 42 queen European-style rooms with shared (yet private) bathrooms in the hall. For your convenience, sinks are in-room, along with vibrant, harlequin paintings along the walls and headboards that tune the tone of the room’s musical muse.I stayed in the “Wonderlust” by Gogol Bordello room—watch the video of this Manhattan gypsy punk band’s single and you’ll understand the room’s thematic motif. Sink into the bed after a late show at the Crystal Ballroom and use the black velvet drapes to hide or expose the views/lights of the city from the large windows, depending on your morning mood following such a rocking night. Earplugs are available at the front desk and often come recommended for light sleepers, as the Crystal Hotel does not shy away from noise—from the city, venue or guests—nor should it. It’s kind of their vibe, man.
The Zeus Café offers meals for all evenings, morning-afters or late lunches, with floor to ceiling street-side windows to watch the coming and goings of the day. Named for ’50s and ’60s nightclub owners Nate and Tillie Zusman, the Zeus’ open kitchen allows the sights and smells of the Northwest cuisine to dance into the dining room to the sound of the speakers. Grab a house-baked pastry for a breakfast on-the-go or enjoy a slow, brain-cell restorative brunch with one of the cast iron frittatas or a combination of both with the Zeus’ Breakfast Sandwich. Lunch brings pizza (like the chef’s special daily selection) and sandwiches (like the house made falafel on the house made poppy seed brioche bun or the “porkstrami” served with a pear sauerkraut). Dinner offers notable starters (like the wood-fire lamb meatballs with mint salad) and seasonal entrees (like grilled Oregon-caught Chinook salmon or the German-style pork chop with spätzle). Afternoon, happy hour and late night menus are also available. The wide range of McMenamins wines, ales, ciders and spirits are poured from start to finish to complement your mood, whether you are blue like jazz or feeling like you are ready to rock.
End your night or start your day at the saltwater soaking pool, open from 8am to 1am and exclusively for hotel guests. Enter a saline oasis below street level, with McMenamins-made drink in hand (in a plastic cup, of course), and wash the wear and tear away. If you forget your suit, the hotel sells options from the vintage shop Popina Swimwear, while men can tote a slick pair of McMenamin’s board shorts.
Hotel room rates also generously include admission to the subterranean soaking pool and the opportunity to purchase tickets to a Crystal Ballroom show. Check the concert schedule when visiting or book your room accordingly to your ticket purchase.
Supposedly, people still argue whether it was young Hendrix that was fired from Little Richard’s band in the middle of a performance at the Crystal Ballroom in the 1960’s. If it was, big mistake, Rich. BIG mistake.
Crystal Hotel || 303 SW 12th Ave, Portland || mcmenamins.com/crystalhotel
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