There are many things that make the Columbia Gorge a special place, from its vast array of outdoor activities and fruit orchards, to the astounding beauty of the mountains and the Columbia River. But what makes this area so spectacular when it comes to wine? The Columbia Gorge AVA, established in 2004, stretches just 40 miles. Covering both the Washington and Oregon sides of the river, the AVA is wildly diverse — with huge variances in precipitation, temperature and soil composition — thereby lending itself the ability to grow a wide range of grape varietals. The wines from this area also tend to produce much riper fruit, with higher acidity and structure, adding to the significance of this exceptional wine region.
Along the Washington side of the Columbia River sit two lesser-known small towns that perfectly reflect the charm and endless possibility of the Columbia Gorge AVA – Lyle and White Salmon. Both towns — and the nearby vineyards — are worthy of a visit.
Lyle, Washington
Where the Columbia River merges with the Klickitat River lies the sleepy town of Lyle, Washington, known primarily for Doug’s Beach, a windsurfing and kiteboarding haven for visitors from around the globe and locals alike. What you may not know, is that within a four-mile stretch, are three husband-and-wife-owned and operated, award-winning wineries, acres of private vineyards, beautiful tasting rooms and magical garden settings to sip your favorite varietals.
Until Highway 14 was constructed in 1933, Lyle’s only road access was by a bridge over the Klickitat River. Still a small town, Lyle is home to French’s Farm, where owners Matt Kotwasinski and Claire West sell homemade waffle cones and ice cream, along with flowers, seasonal fresh fruits and vegetables, seeds and plants. There is a market, an antique store and the newly renovated historic Lyle Hotel with 10 private rooms. The hotel has a restaurant that lies dormant at the moment, but the owners are planning to host pop-up dinners somewhere down the road.
Lyle has plenty of hiking trails and outdoor activities, but where the town really shines is its thriving vineyards along the Columbia Gorge AVA’s eastern edge.
Syncline Winery was aptly named from the basalt cliffs rising into the Cascade Mountains, known by the locals as the Coyote Wall Syncline. Run by James and Poppie Mantone, the pair produced their first vintage in 1999, a Celilo Vineyard Pinot Noir, at just under 80 cases. They soon built a winery and planted vineyards that have since grown to nearly 20 acres of estate vines, producing around 5,000 cases. Their intent is to keep production levels low to maintain quality. All estate fruit is farmed using biodynamic practices, and grapes are handpicked.
Syncline showcases Rhône and Burgundy style wines, stunning grounds, a selection of tasting experiences, events and private tours. They do not allow pets or anyone under 21 on the premises.
Open Friday through Sunday, 12 – 5 PM and reservations are encouraged.
111 Balch Road, Lyle WA
synclinewine.com
Just two miles away is Cor Cellars, launched in 2004 by Luke Bradford, who saw the enormous potential of the wine growing region that is the Columbia Gorge. Luke began planting with just a couple acres of vines on the estate property in Lyle, WA, and in 2011, joined forces with Meg Gilbert, who brought her own family wine history with her, having managed all the sales for Gilbert Cellars.
Cor Cellars focuses on white and sparkling wines grown in the Columbia Gorge AVA, while their reds are sourced in the warmer climates of Horse Heaven Hills and the Yakima Valley. The impeccably designed tasting room alone is worth a stop. There is also a shaded courtyard and seasonal glamping tents are erected during the cooler months.
Open Wednesday through Monday by appointment. They ask you to leave your pets and those under 21 at home.
151 Old Highway 8, Lyle WA
corcellars.com
A five-minute drive away is Domaine Pouillon, a family-run winery focusing on Rhône style wines. Alexis and Juliet Pouillon began their winemaking journey in 2005 and started planting their own vines in 2007. The estate vineyard is certified organic, boasting two-and-a-half acres of grapes made up of three types of white varietals and a block of Syrah. The Pouillon’s source of red grapes is primarily the well-known Horse Heaven Hills AVA, while the Columbia Gorge AVA is favored for its white wines.
While Domaine Pouillon will continue to use its current facility that features an indoor tasting room, outdoor courtyard and picnic area, there is a newly remodeled tasting room on its way just at the water’s edge. With an expected grand opening sometime in October 2023, the airy, communal space will be shared with the new-kid-on-the-block, the Confluence Cafe, a coffee shop and bakery. The Confluence Cafe is a collaboration between Alison Hamerstadt and Matt Bynum, who will offer specialty coffee and local baked goods for the myriad outdoor enthusiasts the area attracts. Domaine Pouillon is planning its own food-and-wine pairings, as well. The wrap-around deck will have built-in seating, enabling you to enjoy your wine and snacks while taking in the breathtaking Columbia River.
Open Wednesday through Sunday, 11 – 7 PM.
170 Lyle Snowden Rd, Lyle WA
34 State St, Lyle WA
domainepouillon.com
WHITE SALMON
About 15 minutes to the west of Lyle sits the town of White Salmon, Washington. Located just across the bridge from Hood River, Oregon, the town takes the name of the nearby river. This Columbia Gorge darling is perched on a bluff overlooking the Columbia River with sweeping views of Mount Hood, and includes nearly a mile of river frontage.
With but one main street running through town, you’ll find no shortage of things to do in White Salmon. There are nearby trails and waterfalls to explore and, spanning only a few short blocks, plenty of options for dining and drinking, adding to the lure of this small corner of the Columbia Gorge.
Your visit to White Salmon isn’t complete without a stop at the White Salmon Baking Company, which serves baked goods, along with amazing breakfast and lunch options. Also, be sure to grab a beer or a bite to eat at Everybody’s Brewing, a beloved community gathering spot for the past 15 years. White Salmon has many other food options in town, as well as a handful of local artisans and boutiques selling clothing, handmade pottery and jewelry, specialty teas and unique gifts.
For upscale dining, try Feast Market and Delicatessen or Henni’s Kitchen and Bar. If you’re looking for something more casual, give Pixán a try, serving up Oaxacan cuisine. Or perhaps a slice or a whole pie, at Pizza Leona. Two new additions to the scene, are Nativ Cafe, a coffee shop also serving kava and a handful of menu items, and Cool Beans, scooping ice cream and treats along with espresso drinks. A new craft cocktail bar will soon be joining the local watering hole, Tarwater Tavern.
And if you’re in need of accommodations, there are options to fit every budget — from Airbnb’s in and around town to the cozy eco-lodge, Inn of the White Salmon, and the architecturally stunning new Hotel Iconica, in the heart of downtown.
White Salmon has three wine bars within walking distance of all of the above.
Run by longtime pals, Chris Stiffler and Tosh Forrence, Le Doubblé Troubblé opened in 2018 and showcases single-vineyard wines from Willamette Valley and the Columbia Gorge. Though Pinot Noir is the favored child, other varietals make an appearance, including Chardonnay, Grenache and Grüner Veltliner, to name a few.
The vibe here is comfortable and laid back, so score a comfy seat on the couch and order a cheese plate, or hang with friends at the bar or outside in the parklet. You can order a flight, a glass or a bottle. They also pour beer, select guest wines, and host occasional pop-up dinners.
Open Thursday through Monday, 12 – 8 PM.
111 East Jewett Blvd, White Salmon WA
ldtwines.com
The ground floor of the new Hotel Iconica is home to Clyzm Wines, where owner Austin Culver can be found behind the bar, pouring his very first vintage. Having worked in California, New Zealand and the Willamette Valley in Oregon, Culver moved to the Gorge to make his own path amidst the powder and the vineyards, as skiing and wine are his true passions. Clyzm features a gorgeous tasting room and an outdoor patio area, replete with plenty of seating. Congregate by the fire pit while nibbling on a selection of cheeses. Flights, glasses and bottles are available for purchase.
Open Thursday through Monday, 1 – 9 PM.
121 West Jewett Blvd, White Salmon, WA
clyzmwine.com
Taking over a dilapidated house that sat vacant for a decade, Soča Wine Shop opened its doors in mid-December, 2022. Soča is the brainchild of Nina Jimenez and Jure Poberaj, formerly of the White Salmon Baking Company, and Bethany Kimmel, known by those in the wine industry as The Color Collector. Poberaj is a winemaker, and labels under Poberaj Wines. Both Poberaj and Kimmel are highly regarded in the wine world — in the Gorge and beyond — and White Salmon has very quickly embraced their special shop.
Soča’s retail selection focuses on “unique and innovative wines from around the world” and supports producers who prioritize sustainability. Their quaint space holds several small bistro tables, as well as a bar and an inviting patio, that welcomes your furry friends. Order wine by the glass or bottle, dig into the delicious small plate offerings, and take a bottle or two home. If you’re in need of advice, just ask — the staff here is knowledgeable and happy to help.
Open Thursday through Sunday, 12 – 8 PM.
120 N Main Ave, White Salmon, WA
socawineshop.com
