Old Tom gin is one of my favorite renascent spirit styles. Though missing for many years, you’ll find it back behind bars at most any craft cocktail establishment today. And one of the best new examples comes from Seattle’s Batch 206.
Following a lengthy wait for label approval, the updated take on Batch 206’s already popular Counter Gin is packaged (complete with the classic black tomcat, signifier of the style) and selling briskly. Opening the bottle offers a whiff of woodsiness, derived from resting six months in Hungarian oak Chardonnay barrels and reflected immediately in the flavor. Balanced botanicals—tarragon, verbena, orange, lavender and cucumber alongside the juniper—combine with the barrel-aged bourbon vanilla notes for a complex yet completely satisfying finish. Switch it out for London Dry in any classic cocktail and find yourself facing a whole new drink.
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