Consider a beautiful resort, one with decades of history which cement it into the surrounding environment. Cabin houses and blocks of rooms are sprinkled around, ready to receive groups for weddings or family reunions. Every angle yields an Instagram-ready view. Now consider its food: is it good? Most of the time, no. But with new chef Raymond Southern in the kitchen at Rosario Resort on Orcas Island, things have changed.
The chef arrived at The Mansion at Rosario in November 2015, bringing to the property his many years at notable restaurants (William Tell, La Belle Auberge, both in Vancouver) and significant time at top vacation properties around the world. With it came a renovation to the kitchen space, bringing in the best electric induction hob and updated fittings and equipment around the space to give the chefs the best tools to bring the best meals to the table.
Most significantly, he brought the knowledge he earned growing up in the area and working with the plants and animals native to the region. Growing up in Port Coquitlam (outside of Vancouver, BC), he learned to highlight wild foods and use every part of seasonal ingredients.
At Rosario, a recent favorite started with the greens of a Ninja Radish, which were combined with salmon bones to form an earthy broth. The bones came from a first of the season Skagit River salmon, while the broth was topped with the lightly seasoned belly and collar of that salmon. Thinly sliced radishes added crunch and spice to the bright green and pink dish.
But braised meats are common on his menu year-round, especially as he loves to highlight local lamb, rabbit and duck. This pairs well with another hobby of his: making fresh pasta for his menus. In the same meal, we enjoyed a tender pappardelle (with just the right tooth) topped with a ragu of a lamb raised on the island. Wide and perfectly rested and boiled pasta held a generous heaping of the lightly sweet ragu.
The bar at The Mansion is also worth a visit. In the lounge (and available on the restaurant menu) is a locally spirited list created by the restaurant manager and lead bartender. The food and beverage manager oversees curation, guidance and oversight of the bar program.
After a lovely dinner and beers from local Pacific Northwest breweries, I enjoyed one of the most comfortable beds of all time. I look forward to more visits in the coming years, not just to enjoy Southern’s cooking but also to watch the resort grow and change.
And in the last few years, there has been a lot of change. Prior to Southern’s arrival, a handful of chefs popped in for a couple years and then departed. But this arrival looks to be a lot longer lasting. The chef arrived at the same time as his wife, Holly, who runs marketing for the resort. Previously at the Pike Place Market Foundation, history-rich local treasures are no stranger to her.
It is rumored Rosario’s owners plan to remodel and update the resort but for now, the kitchen’s beautiful creations are a delicious first step in that direction.
