Cellarmasters are relatively unknown and unheralded members of a winemaking team. They are responsible for organizing and overseeing daily cellar operations.
Cellarmasters are jacks-of-all-trades with a seemingly never-ending list of crucial tasks to accomplish throughout the year to ensure a successful vintage from harvest to bottle. Depending on the size of the winery, a selection from their long list of tasks includes: cleaning equipment, picking up or receiving fruit, transferring wines to barrels, running labs, racking and topping off barrels, and tracking data for compliance. They are nothing less than the guardians of the wine-making process.
I interviewed Annie Martz, cellarmaster at Seven Hills Winery and Zach Pearson, cellarmaster at Dillon Cellars. They shared their passion, what they love about their jobs, and challenges of this demanding and sometimes risky position.
Sip: What stimulated your interest in working in the wine industry and led you to becoming a cellarmaster?
Annie Martz: I started working in a wine bar which led to a position in a tasting room at the winery now known as Tinte Cellars. I became obsessed with devouring information on wine and winemaking. Tinte opened my eyes to a whole new world. I decided to join the Enology and Viticulture program at Walla Walla Community College and from day one, I knew that this is what I wanted to do for the rest of my life. After graduating, I “harvest hopped” between the northern and southern hemispheres. When I returned to Washington, I realized I wanted to be in Walla Walla. In the Winter of 2019, I was hired by Seven Hills Winery as a cellar hand. I’ve been here ever since, jumping to cellar lead, then lab tech, and was promoted to cellarmaster in 2022.
Zach Pearson: I wanted to pursue a career in the agriculture field to honor my grandfather. He was a hobby farmer and an inspiration in my life. I completed the Walla Walla Community College Enology and Viticulture program in 2020. My first job was working in a winery’s cellar and tasting room. In 2021, I was promoted to cellarmaster. It was my first time having that level of responsibility. It was a great opportunity for growth and personal development in the industry. In 2023, I wanted to explore small-lot wines made using a more “hands-off” approach. Dillon Cellars winemaking aligned with this style of wine I enjoy. Owner/winemaker Mark Leahy hired me as cellarmaster. It has been a cool experience to see and participate in the winemaking process.
Sip: What do you love most about your work?
AM: It’s hard to isolate all the things I love about what I do. It boils down to a crazy mish-mash of odds and ends that equate to a premium bottle on the table. I find satisfaction in seeing things through from start to finish. I’ve had a chance to see vines produce gorgeous fruit, see that fruit transform into the wines we work with, see that wine go to bottle and then see our community and guests take joy from that wine. And there’s always something to learn with wine as the subject!
ZP: For me, it’s all about the end result. I’m proud to stand behind our wines. I believe they have something to say. Our diligent and patient approach to winemaking yields expressive, true-to-place wines. I am proud that I’m entrusted to keep the winery in good working order and am building a skillset to make my own wine in the future.
Sip: What are the most challenging aspects about your job?
AM: Any project manager will likely say managing people is the most difficult aspect of getting tasks completed on time. Winery labor is increasingly difficult to find. It’s not for everyone. Those who love it, love it, and are addicted to it. But most don’t find crawling into a tank to clean it fun. As the industry evolves, I think we’re going to have a larger conversation about labor, pay, and other industry complications we’re seeing in the changing market.
ZP: During harvest, there is less time to spend with my family, which is challenging. It comes with the job but you’re never fully mentally prepared for it. As a small winery, space management is also a challenge. The cellar layout is always shifting as we move wine around. Working efficiently is key.
Sip: Final thoughts?
AM: There are many people who help make our wines. Behind every bottle is a team of people with a passion for wine and attention to detail. For aspiring winery workers, if it’s something you think you might love, take the leap. You won’t be alone.
ZP: The greatest saying I have retained from my first harvest is, “Do it right, do it light. Do it wrong, do it twice.” In essence, slow is smooth and smooth is fast. Also, don’t forget to breathe!
