If you had told me, a professional chef and food writer, that some of the best food and cocktail experiences I would ever have the joy of tasting would be in a small mountain town in Montana, I’d likely scoff in your face. I’ve spent years in Napa Valley, I grew up in San Diego, I have made countless trips to Portland, San Francisco, Vancouver — basically every metropolitan city in the Pacific Northwest under my belt — literally.
When I was invited out to Whitefish, Montana, I thought “Great! I’ll enjoy some awesome outdoor time but maybe I’ll pack some extra snacks.” I’d never even heard of Whitefish, much less its food scene.
As I was chauffeured out of the Kalispell airport and into the Flathead Valley by our lovely host, Julie, a native of Chicago and a hospitality powerhouse, I had to ask, “What’s the food scene like here?” Our conversation was quick. I was expecting a simple “ehhh” or a “it was definitely an adjustment moving here.” But what she said instead was even more honest: “It’s no Chicago, but we have some great food here.”
Julie had lived and eaten all around Chicago and I knew exactly what she meant. The quality of ingredients, presentation and flavor were comparable to that of fine dining in the city, but limited to the overall options. There aren’t five different Thai places in the span of three blocks. There isn’t a pizzeria that’s been dedicated to deep dish for the past 10 generations. But there is a culture of chefs, restaurateurs, bar tenders, business owners and general dreamers that have put in their work in their respective “big cities” to chase their career heights only to achieve them and come out wanting something that looks different from “big city success.” Something that feels slower.
Jo Smith, a musician who managed to achieve two record deals amongst the Nashville music scene, moved to Montana after being tossed around the giant machine of the elite music industry. During a conversation about my theories, we came to the conclusion that was summed up as this: Whitefish has managed to harvest a culture where professionals in their class are able to slow down and simply “do it for the love of it.” It is a practice you can’t consistently find in big, oversaturated cities, where musicians are making the music that they’re told will sell rather than the song their soul wants to sing.
In Whitefish, chefs are excited to cook the food on your plate. Musicians are eager to sing the song in their heart, young kayak guides are thrilled to take you on your first paddling excursion, and it comes across in the quality of their service. Go to support the people who are doing things for the love of it and stay for all the other fun stuff.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
Herb & Omni brings big-city flair to the small Montana mountain town for a surprising experience. James Beard nominated chef, Earl Reynolds, showcases elegant fine dining fare dedicated to local ingredients. So dress up and treat yourself at this elegant spot after a day full of outdoor adventure. Bonus: their wine list is equally incredible!
Though Beldi isn’t what I would consider a “flashy” restaurant, it manages to capture that sacred in-between space — where you can show up for a cozy late night dinner in a t-shirt and sneakers or start a romantic evening in a sports coat and tie. Chef/owner Adam Becker reveals his impressive culinary background with food that feels familiar while showing off perfected cookery techniques that can only come from years of honing your craft.
If you love a good craft cocktail, good vibes, and supporting a woman-owned business, Spotted Bear Spirits is the place to be. The distillery specializes in gin, distilled agave, and vodkas that are infused with local, seasonal produce that set the foundation for some unforgettable drinks. And it’s just plain cute inside. Try the “Salt & Pepper”!
Latitude 48 Bistro & Red Room Lounge
The only thing better than a pre-dinner cocktail in a moody underground bar that can shake a mean dirty martini, is being able to walk up a short flight of stairs for a solid dinner to please a crowd afterwards. Go here with your friends and family for fire roasted pizza and other Americana/fusion fare.
WHERE TO EXPLORE
Glacier National Park with The Glacier Institute
You could always drive yourself through one of the most historic national parks in the United States, but why not take a guided tour with the official education partner of Glacier National Park instead? On a tour, you’ll be met with guides who are just as committed to teaching about the rich indigenous history of the park as you are curious. If you do decide to tour Glacier on your own, you can always join the institute for one of their partnering events, like educational guided hikes, wildflower workshops, and even journaling and sketching in the national park!
After dark, head to the Great Northern Bar for a night cap, dancing and live music. They also have a plethora of casino games, ping pong and multiple billiards tables for those moments when you’re just not ready to let the night end.
Whether paddle boarding, kayaking, e-biking or just plain old hiking is your jam, Whitefish Outfitters has you covered. Rent all your gear for your next adventure, or have them guide you through a new excursion around Whitefish trails.
If you want to live your best Montana cowboy life, head to Clydesdale Outpost for a leisure horseback ride along the Stillwater River. The ranch also hosts seasonal events like haunted hayrides, winter sleigh rides and other outdoor activities throughout the year for you and your family to enjoy.
WHERE TO STAY
Tucked away on Whitefish Lake Golf Club, Grouse Mountain Lodge is the perfect place for those who want a serene stay. The lodge has their own restaurant, coffee bar and outdoor jacuzzi overlooking tee time — all within a few minutes walk (or bike) from downtown Whitefish.
Placed on the shores of Whitefish Lake, this lodge is complete with multiple pools (indoor and out for year round use), a restaurant, gift shop, private beach, wetland trails, s’mores hour, and best of all, free canoe rentals for guests. With nothing short of things to do and views to enjoy, you won’t even have to leave the grounds to find your next adventure.