Raise your hand if you’ve frequented Tacoma, Washington, for years without realizing that tacos were literally derived from its name. Or maybe that was just me? Either way, thank goodness Peter Levy of Chow Foods came to this conclusion when he opened Brewers Row just six months ago next-door to sister restaurant Cooks Tavern, putting “the ‘taco’ in Tacoma.” These are the first two eateries Chow Foods has opened outside of Seattle, spreading some well-received culinary love to the south end.
The triple threat Brewers Row specializes in coffee, tacos and beer in the Proctor neighborhood of North Tacoma and it’s nothing short of a genius combo. We already know that Northwest locals have an, um, coffee dependency concern (which is enthusiastically encouraged). But we also know that tacos and beer complete life. And on Monday at noon, both coffee and beer are regularly imbibed concurrently and quite shamelessly behind the doors of Brewers Row, proof that tacos aren’t just important on Tuesdays or Cinco de Mayo.
Beginning at 7 a.m. daily, all items on the menu are up for grabs. Hit the counter to order a breakfast taquito or cheddar-jalapeno biscuit made with cage-free eggs and pair it with a classic cup of drip coffee, or stick to the South-of-the-border theme with a horchata latte or Mexi-hot chocolate. While you wait, grab a table either along the brick or stucco-esque dandelion-hued wall. From here, admire quirky modern artwork – close-ups of peppers and corn, anyone? – and a large fridge filled with beer to go; both are equally impressive. Speaking of to go, don’t forget to grab a Mexican coffee cake, scone or muffin on your way out, because, yes, this place is also a bakery.
As the day progresses, you might find yourself face-to-face with the wall of endless taps, contemplating why you are beer-ing it up on your lunch break, but mostly prioritizing the important questions, like: so which will it be? With 24 rotating taps, there’s a brew for every palate to match your taco of choice, whether you opted for cilantro-lime chicken, roasted sweet potatoes “papas dulce” with fresno chiles and kale, or chorizo verde atop double layers of tortillas. Feel free to mix n’ match if you don’t want to miss out, and that applies to both tacos and beer.
If the fermented tea variety is more your thing, you could wash down those deceivingly petite – they will fill you up – street-style tacos with a pour of Humm kombucha. Or, bag the tacos all together and go burrito, quesadilla, torta, ensalada or a cup of chicken tortilla soup – all made with locally sourced protein or veggie-friendly fillings. Whatever you do, be sure to slather house salsas on generously. Salsas de casa range from mild (avocado crema) to bold (roasted habanero). For the extra brave soul, chipotle toasted grasshoppers with chile salt and lime await. These authentic bites are a spring seasonal special until June 21st when summer specials roll around.
Aside from rotating brews and specials, Brewers Row hosts brewers nights with local breweries like nearby Engine House No. 9, just five minutes down the street off 6th Avenue. Attend for showcased ales, food specials and giveaways. Share a plate of nachos or a dozen homemade churros with your crew and remember to bring your trusty growler for a fill-up. You need not leave empty handed.
