The Referral Route

by | Nov 21, 2024

A hidden journey among Willamette Valley boutique wineries, each embodying a quiet brilliance

The Willamette Valley is enveloped by vineyards producing world-class labels, including some of the finest renditions of Pinot Noir globally. There may be more to this Oregon valley’s vine-covered landscapes than meets the eye. Picture a low-key wine trail in the heart of the region, not marked on any tourist map. Welcome to the referral route: a  word-of-mouth journey featuring boutique wineries, each embodying a quiet brilliance beyond the mainstream.

These small, owner-led vineyards are similar — family affairs, wonderfully eccentric, set on rambling farms — yet each unique unto itself. Take Native Flora, a haven for Pinot Noir aficionados. No road signs guide the way; it’s an exclusive rendezvous meant for those in the know. To reach it, navigate through a discreet gravel road to a gate concealed behind an aging silver barn. From there, pass sheep, ducks, geese and tail-wagging livestock guard dogs to reach Scott and Denise Flora’s beautiful home, which doubles as a de facto tasting room.

“We don’t think of new guests as strangers; they are just friends we haven’t met yet,” says Scott Flora, owner and winemaker at Native Flora. The winery, with its unassuming charm, is a testament to the idea that a small winery can still have outsize impact.

This conviviality isn’t confined to Native Flora. Brian O’Donnell, owner and winemaker at Belle Pente Vineyard and Winery, recalls a memorable moment that encapsulates the spirit of this family-driven winery in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. O’Donnell remembers a loyal customer, a skilled brick mason, expressing the joy of arriving at the vineyard akin to being a child on Christmas morning. “That is the feeling that we aspire to inspire in every visit and every bottle,” he says.

Tom Fitzpatrick at Élevée Winegrowers tends to his vines with a reverence that exemplifies the ethos of the referral route. “Our goal is purity,” Fitzpatrick affirms. Élevée’s wines, guided by this focus, let the terroir speak for itself. “Great wine[s] begin in the vineyard,” he says. “We provide support, like any good parent, so they become their best selves.”

Here, terroir ceases to be an elusive term and becomes something tangible. Delving deeper, Tom and his wife, France, personally guide visitors through their self-styled ‘Study of Terroir’ so they can taste it for themselves — all with a view of vines as far as the eye can see.

According to Brad McLeroy, owner and winemaker at Ayres Vineyard, these appointment-only tastings ensure that you get the “straight scoop, directly from the winemaker.” Here, the cellar/tasting room is bathed in a cool, diffused light, where barrels age patiently in an underground, cave-like setting. When it’s nice, McLeroy encourages shifting outside. “Our outdoor firepits come with the backdrop of our vineyard, neighboring vineyards and views of the Chehalem Mountains and the Hills of Dundee,” he says. “Or we jump in an RTV and explore the vineyard. It’s always fun to taste the fruit as we get closer to harvest.”

When it comes to cellar tastings, Beckham Estate Vineyard is home to a one-of-a-kind cellar. Not only is owner Andrew Beckham the winemaker, he is a ceramic artist who creates the amphorae in which his wines mature. “The cellar boasts life-size terracotta vessels, providing visual and aromatic delights unique to wine clay vessels,” he says. “Guests can savor wines, explore the farm, tour the cellar and witness the studio in action.”

Other members of this secret society of vintners are Ayoub, Anderson Family Vineyard and Nysa — all modest in size, but with truly epic wines. It becomes clear that the essence of such experiences lies in the intangibles — the laughter shared during vineyard picnics, the quiet moments of reflection with a glass in hand, and the unspoken understanding that this isn’t just about wine; it’s about a shared journey.

It is not just about exceptional wines but the passionate community of wine lovers that has organically formed around it. Customers recommend these wineries to their friends, and the winemakers are likely to recommend each other to their discerning customers. What sets these consumers apart is not just their taste for fine wine but their role as inadvertent ambassadors. In an age dominated by digital marketing and flashy promotions, this word-of-mouth approach feels refreshingly authentic.

“Most of us are well under the radar,” says Cliff Anderson, owner and winemaker at Anderson Family Vineyard. “We don’t have much signage. No national distribution. Limited advertising budgets. And not much visibility in a world dominated by large corporations and big money.

“However, in my former life, I spent years researching marketing communications,” Anderson continues. “A consistent finding was that word of mouth was the single most powerful and reliable tool. As wine becomes more commoditized, customers are seeking out unique, special and real experiences.”

One such aficionado is Cody Short, who recounts his first encounter with Native Flora’s Pinot Noir five years ago like it was yesterday. “It was a revelation. My first foray into Oregon boutique wine — the Pinot was vivid and vibrant, with spice and licorice,” he recalls. “Since then, I have tried some exemplary wines at Mo Ayoub’s kitchen island, and at the Ayres underground tasting room. This is a really special corner of the world.”

Californians Rick and Paulette Hill have been meeting in the Willamette Valley for 23 consecutive years and are regulars at Native Flora, Anderson Family and Élevée. “We tried Ayoub Winery for the first time last year. Mo poured us the best Cab Franc we had ever tasted and completely changed our minds about the grape,” Rick recalls. “Mo was correct when he said, ‘If you’d like to keep your money, don’t taste this wine because you will buy it.’ We bought it.”

The allure of the referral route, for those well-versed in the world of wine, lies not in exclusivity for its own sake. It’s a respite from the noise — a return to the essence of craftsmanship and a celebration of the unspoken bonds that form between those who appreciate life’s finer nuances.

Map your own referral route

These unsung owner-led wineries deserve a spot on your Willamette Valley itinerary, or better yet, warrant a trip entirely on their own. Just make sure to make an appointment in advance!

Nysa Vineyard

The name Nysa, inspired by the Greek god of the grapevine, Dionysus’ mythical sacred haven, underscores the vineyard’s paradise-like setting. Nysa Vineyard, established in 1990 by owner and winemaker Michael Mega, stands as a testament to three decades of dedicated grape growing. Nysa sprang from Mega’s realization of the exceptional quality his vineyards could yield.

In 2004, Mega introduced the inaugural Nysa Vineyard Pinot Noir, embodying complexity, concentration and balance. He embraces a minimalistic approach, eschewing fining and filtering to preserve Pinot Noir’s subtle intricacies. Nysa wines are “gracefully aged,” as Mega puts it, maturing patiently, unveiling secondary flavors and delicate acidity. The vertical tasting experience is unparalleled and features Pinot Noir wines of different vintages, aged to reveal their true beauty and highlighting the nuances of different years.

18655 NE Trunk Road Dundee | nysavineyard.com

Beckham Estate Vineyard

Perched in Oregon’s Chehalem Mountains, what started as a plan for a ceramics studio in 2004 evolved into a 34-acre estate boasting a beautiful vineyard, tasting room, winery, and an on-site ceramics studio. Andrew Beckham, a ceramics artist for over 25 years, seamlessly blends his passion for pottery and winemaking. As the sole producer of commercially available amphorae in North America, he crafts vessels integral to the estate’s wine production, creating a unique synergy between art and viticulture.

What makes Beckham Estate’s varietals special is not just the diverse range — Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Trousseau Noir, Gamay, Aligoté and more — but the meticulous approach. Dry-farmed vines, biodynamic principles and a sprawling riparian zone create a holistic ecosystem. The estate’s dedication to sustainability extends to winemaking, with native yeast fermentation, minimal sulfites and the use of neutral vessels for aging.

30790 SW Heater Road, Sherwood | beckhamestatevineyard.com

Belle Pente Vineyard and Winery

A historic 70-acre, 1840s farmstead in Oregon’s Yamhill-Carlton AVA, Belle Pente means “beautiful slope.” You’ll find livestock grazing lazily around the fields of vines — over 16 acres of Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay. This hillside haven has been meticulously stewarded since 1994 by Jill and Brian O’Donnell , who transitioned from high-flying Silicon Valley careers to a shared resolve to cultivate premium wines. Brian’s foray into winemaking was “a hobby gone out of control,” a homegrown affair inspired by the great wines of Burgundy and Alsace. No grandiose tasting room here. Instead, there are intimate visits with the owner/winemaker, allowing visitors to soak in the authentic farm experience. Brian sums it up perfectly: “It feels like a real farm versus a country club.”

12470 NE Rowland Road, Carlton | bellepente.com

Native Flora

A tour at Native Flora brims over with charisma, thanks in part to the bird’s-eye view from the mountaintop vista, the elegant wines and, last but not least, the vivacious personality of owner and winemaker Scott Flora.

The six-acre vineyard, strategically perched, is invisible to the world. This regenerative vineyard defies convention with its radical placement, high altitude and north-facing site. Flora envisions Native Flora not just as a brand but as an experiential entity rooted in personal connections. Despite all the science at play here, the tastings are a relaxed, lighthearted affair. “We farm unconventionally and we talk about it,” he says. “Most importantly, we believe that wine should be fun; it is to be shared, enjoyed, discussed, consumed with meals, and a part of hospitality’s fabric. It shouldn’t be snobby, elitist, overpriced or the subject of great cerebral endeavor.” Their hallmark? Elegance, sheer elegance. Pinots, over 20 years in the making, boast depth and intensity akin to the finest Burgundy wines.

11812 NE Worden Hill Rd, Newberg | nativeflora.com

Ayoub Wines

Ayoub, with a production of fewer than 2,000 cases yearly, is a well-guarded Dundee Hills secret, born out of Mo Ayoub’s passion for food and cooking. “In the end, making wine is all about knowing flavor,” he says. Ayoub, until not too long ago, was bound to a demanding 90-hour engineering week, commuting between the Bay Area and Dundee for more than 11 years, his weekends dedicated to his Oregon vineyard dream. In 2016, he transformed his garage into an on-site winery and quit his engineering job. This move was more than a career shift; it was a profound commitment to crafting unique wines. The tastings, usually held in Ayoub’s kitchen or living room, offer an intimate ambiance with sweeping vineyard views, creating an atmosphere far from the usual winery setting.

9650 NE Keyes Lane, Dundee | ayoubwines.com

Anderson Family Vineyard

“Farming is in my blood,” says Cliff Anderson, the driving force behind Anderson Family Vineyard. Growing up on his grandfather’s organic farm fueled his passion for farming. As a science geek, he experimented with fermentation in high school. “Turning sugar into alcohol is simple,” he recalls. “Making it taste good isn’t.” Lots of trial and error led to a final, life-affirming lesson: “The key to making delicious wine is growing good grapes.” And that discovery led to a three-year search before finding the perfect site in Oregon’s Dundee Hills.

The Andersons’ approach to winemaking involves being slow, akin to the slow food movement. This deliberate process allows flavors to develop, resulting in wines that leave a lasting impression on those fortunate enough to discover them. Cliff talks about the deep connection to his heritage. “Our winery looks like an Oregon farm building, not a French Chateau,” he says. “We grow our grapes and follow ancient methods like organic farming, gravity and native yeast. And we just might have the best view in the valley.”

20120 NE Herring Lane, Newberg | andersonfamilyvineyard.com

Ayres Vineyard

Sparked by a passion for Pinot Noir after a revelatory 1999 visit to Oregon, Brad and Kathleen McLeroy drove from Kansas City with no plan, no jobs, no land — just a dream. Cut to today; Ayres Vineyard now sprawls across 18 acres, nurturing 36,000 vines predominantly in Willakenzie soils. The cellar is a hidden sanctuary, tucked 14 feet below Kathleen’s parents’ house.

Tasting at Ayres is an immersive experience. “People love the smell in our cellar tasting room — I playfully joke that it comes from all the wine that spills on the floor,” says Brad. The wine? The Pinot Noir itself is a lesson in subtlety and the most delightful expression of the Ribbon Ridge AVA.

17971 NE Lewis Rogers Lane, Newberg | ayresvineyard.com

Élevée Winegrowers

Tom and France Fitzpatrick call themselves wine growers, not winemakers.  It’s their way of emphasizing a holistic approach. Their journey began in 1989, weaving through Washington, New Zealand, Napa and Burgundy — ultimately arriving in Oregon.

Pinot Noir takes center stage at Élevée, with a focus on the essential components that make up a wine’s flavor — something they call a “Study in Terroir.” It’s not just a tasting; it’s an exploration of Oregon’s Willamette Valley, guided by the hands of the wine growing owners. Enjoy sweeping views of the Dundee Hills as you sip on their garden patio. Go beyond the glass, touch the vines and feel the essence of the terroir.

9653 NE Keyes Lane, Dundee | eleveewines.com

Story featured in Sip Magazine’s 2024 Annual issue. If you would like to purchase a print version please click here.

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