They say that everything old becomes new again, and few things in the world of winemaking are older than amphora. Thus, I suppose it’s fitting that this ancient means of storing and shipping wine has is now one of the newest trends in winemaking, spurred on by a few adventurous and enterprising folks in the Willamette Valley.
The revitalization of this ancient art started with Andrew Beckham, pottery teacher by day, winemaker by night. As he tells it, the biggest hurdle in making his first amphora with Beckham Estate Vineyard was just believing that it could be done. That, and building a kiln large enough to fire the massive works Beckham creates, some of which stand taller than he does. To date, it has been more of a hobby, but other winemakers in the area have become intrigued, and Beckham has traded and sold to a few others wishing to try something new (or old, I suppose).
Beckham’s love of clay and his love of wine have found an interesting synthesis, as his gorgeous handmade amphorae create a unique environment in which to ferment and age wine. Like oak barrels, they allow some oxygen contact with the maturing wine, but their unique shape and composition means that the maturation process proceeds differently than in oak. Additionally, they contribute texture and even a bit of flavor: like oak, but not.
Beyond that, Beckham and others tend to allow for more skin contact than you’d typically see with white wine, a task that Pinot Gris is uniquely suited for. Because it’s essentially a red-skinned grape, you can develop pigment and even a bit of tannin with extended skin contact, and it seems that those attributes play nicely with the flavors that the amphora promotes.
Let’s be clear on one thing: these are definitely “geeky” wines. The flavors and aromas that extended skin contact plus oxidative aging create (read: nuttiness, bitterness, unusual textures) are not necessarily ones that most people enjoy, or even something that I crave all that often, but they’re also truly memorable when done well.
To date, I’ve only had the chance to try a couple of white wines that have been amphora-aged. The Beckham Pinot Gris seems like the most finely-tuned, which I suppose is no surprise. It retains just the slightest hint of citrus fruit and bruised golden apples while offering the aroma of hazelnuts and almonds. The easiest comparison would be to a fino sherry, though it has lower alcohol and doesn’t have the same salty quality.
As a pairing option, amphora-aged wines are a natural fit for roasted vegetables, grilled fish, and dishes with a noticeable nut component. I think these are wines to enjoy on their own—when you can appreciate the unique flavors, the craftsmanship and the sense of history that goes into making them what they are.
