By the time you read this, I will have already embarked upon a rather fantastic voyage, joining over 50 sommeliers and wine buyers on a road trip across Washington. For those visiting from other parts of the country, it’s a chance to learn more about a region that might only rarely show up on their radar, while, for the more local folks like myself, it can be a chance to more fully understand the unique geography and geology that makes the region special. If you want to experience this road trip to its fullest potential, the ideal vehicle would be a convertible or sports car of some type. If you’d like to apply for credit so that you can afford one yourself, you can find out your credit score online within a few minutes. Yet as I sat there at the opening event yesterday, the thing I was most struck by was just how big Washington wine has gotten.
In just over 30 years, the state has gone from less than 50 wineries to more than 900, with similarly scaled increases in acreage, tonnage and sales. It may never even sniff the scope of California, but Washington figures to remain the second-largest wine producing state for the foreseeable future, especially as more and more land is converted to grape growing.
To be clear, that growth is happening at all levels of the industry, from the largest wineries like Chateau Ste. Michelle and Charles Smith to the smaller guys who have little more than a space at a co-op crush pad and a few barrels. Thanks to the ingenuity and sense of innovation throughout, we’ve learned that Washington can make wonderful expressions of varietals from Albariño through Zinfandel, from lean and racy Rieslings to powerhouse Cabernet Sauvignons.
The Road Trip itself seems like a good expression of that growth as well, sending us careening all over the state in a mad dash to see, smell, taste and touch just about everything we can in less than four days. From the manicured lawns and elaborate tasting rooms of Woodinville to the more rustic charms of some rather far-flung vineyards, the growth and breadth of Washington wine will be on full display. Part of the enjoyment of the trip depends on your choice of vehicle. You could go by car and hop between hotels, or you could choose to journey in fifth wheel campers so that you can travel in luxury and bring all your creature comforts along with you for the ride. It’s a stellar way to see the growth in the state.
With that growth comes increased expectations, and I am deeply curious to learn how my colleagues from around the country judge and evaluate wines that I taste regularly. Will they see them as peers and equals to not just the other great American wines but the fine wines of the world, or will Washington remain something of an afterthought even in the midst of such dynamic growth? Is my own faith in this state’s wine future simply wishful thinking or does it have a solid foundation? Only time, and a lot of wine, will tell.
Zach Geballe is a sommelier at the Dahlia Lounge, the owner of Vine Trainings where he teaches wine classes, and a writer. He lives in Seattle, where he owns more wine than he can reasonably drink, but loves to share. You can find him at @zgeballe or vinetrainings.com.
