Chef Angus An grew up in Canada and is of Taiwanese descent. His wife Kate is Thai. Together, they make annual trips to Thailand to visit her family, and the dishes that make up the menu at their Vancouver, British Columbia, eatery, Fat Mao, are homages to food experiences he’s had in Thailand. An’s background and travel experiences combine with local ingredients to make Thai noodle dishes that get Kate’s stamp of authentic approval, like his braised duck leg noodles.
“Braised duck legs can be served any number of ways,” An says. “Try them in a comforting bowl of noodles or serve topped with sliced scallions, with sides of rice and Asian veggies.”
Fat Mao Bar Manager James Welk frequently serves up Vancouver’s Strange Fellows Nocturnum Dark India pale ale alongside An’s flavorful dishes — in particular, the braised duck. “It has a lower bitterness combined with a luscious richness and is surprisingly light, making it a perfect pairing,” Welk says.
Braised Duck Leg Noodles
Serves 4
1 finger-length piece cassia bark
1 Thai cardamom pod
1 finger-length piece dried orange peel
2 star anise pods
1-2 whole cloves
¼ teaspoon whole white peppercorns
5 liters (about 6 32-ounce containers) chicken stock
2 stalks of lemongrass, tough outer leaves removed, stalks bruised
¼ pound (4 ounces) galangal
½ pandanus leaf
¼ pound (4 ounces) palm sugar
¼ tablespoon vanilla extract
4 tablespoons dark soy sauce
Light soy sauce, to taste
4 duck legs
4 Chinese mushrooms, soaked
1 package (4 servings) rice noodles
Optional for garnish: Asian celery, cilantro leaves, fried shallots, chile vinegar
In a skillet over medium-low heat, toast the cassia bark, Thai cardamom, orange peel, star anise, cloves and peppercorns for a few minutes until fragrant.
In a deep pot, pour in the stock and add the toasted spices, lemongrass, galangal, pandanus leaf, palm sugar, vanilla extract and soy sauces. Taste and adjust with more light soy sauce if salt is needed. Heat until simmering and then add the duck legs.
Bring to a simmer again, then turn heat down low and simmer very slowly for 2-3 hours, until the meat is cooked — fork-tender and falling off the bone. Remove duck legs from braising liquid and set aside. Strain the liquid and reserve.
In each bowl, place a handful of softened rice noodles, adding a duck leg and one of the mushrooms. Pour reserved braising liquid over top until it almost covers the noodles.
Top with Asian celery or other greens, cilantro leaves and fried shallots, and finish with a drizzle of chile vinegar.
This article originally ran in the spring 2017 print issue of Sip Northwest magazine. For the full story and more like it, click here.
