With his second act, the veteran winemaker trades scale for soul, focusing on site-specific, organic wines
In 2017, Joe Dobbes did what many in his position might never dare to do: he stepped away. After building one of Oregon’s largest wine companies, Dobbes Family Estate and Wine by Joe, producing more than 200,000 cases a year, he pressed pause. For the first time in decades, he allowed himself to breathe.
This pause was years in the making. In 2002, he founded Dobbes Family Estate and Wine by Joe, which by 2009 had become Oregon’s second-largest wine producer, crafting not only his own labels but also custom winemaking services for others. The rapid growth pushed him to bring on a financial partner in 2012 to expand internationally. But as the scale ballooned, so did the distance from the craft that first inspired him. By 2017, he sold half of the company to his investors, retaining 50% ownership, and stepped away from day-to-day operations.
From that sabbatical emerged Iterum Wines, a small, intensely personal project named after the Latin word for “again” or “afresh.” It marked a return to the craft that first captured his imagination in Germany in 1985 and Burgundy in 1988. Launched in 2019, Iterum Wines became his deliberate encore and crescendo, built on decades of experience, creative freedom and an unwavering commitment to quality.
The two-year hiatus offered him space to reflect on his 40-year winemaking journey. He saw Iterum as the culmination of that experience, a shift from high-volume production to a hands-on, site-specific approach. Dobbes wanted to make wines that were smaller in scale but bigger in meaning — crafted with intention, precision and a true sense of place.
Today, Dobbes makes just 1,800 cases annually, meticulously and intentionally, with a joy that sometimes gets lost in large-scale production. “The wines have earned some of the highest scores of my career — 94 and 95 points for our Sauvignon Blancs and up to 97 for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay — affirming that this wasn’t merely a return, but an evolution,” he says.
Iterum is rooted in Orchard House Vineyard, a 21-acre estate in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA that Dobbes and his wife Patricia purchased in 2018. The property’s name comes from the historic walnut and cherry orchards lining Orchard Heights Road.
His connection to that land stretches back decades, from first working with its fruit in 1990 under a custom winemaking agreement to later leasing and farming the vineyard through Dobbes Family Estate. He and Patricia fell in love with the rolling hills, coastal views and the unique microclimate that defines the Eola-Amity Hills AVA.
The vineyard’s shallow volcanic soils, south-southwest-facing slopes and the Van Duzer Corridor’s cooling coastal breezes produce grapes with remarkable concentration, vibrant acidity and thick skins. These are traits Dobbes calls essential for crafting world-class, flavorful wines.
But Orchard House means more than grapes to him. “It’s a home, a legacy, and a living testament to connection, perseverance and love for the craft,” Dobbes says. They even grow tomatoes, broccoli, beans and other vegetables just above the vineyard, a small reminder of the balance he now strives to cultivate.
Though a seasoned vintner, transitioning to organic farming at Orchard House proved both humbling and enlightening. He had to let go of the polished, uniform look of a conventional vineyard and instead embrace biodiversity — cover crops like clover and rye and even the occasional weed. “Organic farming isn’t romantic,” he admits. “It’s exacting. It requires constant attention and endless timing.”
That meticulous approach has paid off. “We’ve been rewarded with disease-free, high-quality grapes — from our Pinot Noir to the vegetables we grow just above the vineyard,” Dobbes says. Farming his own land has deepened his respect for the balance between soil, vine and climate, reinforcing his commitment to sustainability and quality.
Producing on a smaller scale allows him to focus on single-vineyard, single-clone expressions. “I strive to craft wines that are true to their varietal and terroir, emphasizing high palate weight, rich texture and vibrant acidity to create balance and tension,” he explains.
He’s also turned away from commercial yeasts, fermenting instead with native flora and often holding back malolactic fermentation. “These choices and a few other techniques, rooted in intuition and honed through years of trial and error, result in wines with deeper mouthfeel, greater balance and a distinct sense of place,” he says.
For Dobbes, the Symonette Vineyard Pinot Noir, part of his “Old Friends” series, best encapsulates his journey. He’s worked with that site since 1989, across three different owners. “This wine reflects the Iterum ethos of returning to my roots,” he says. “It’s a story of enduring relationships and deep knowledge of place — qualities that have defined my 40-year career.”
Its bright cherry, spice and earthy undertones bridge the past and the present. “It’s a narrative of continuity,” Dobbes says, “honoring the vineyards and people who’ve shaped my path.”
Even after four decades, Dobbes’s passion burns bright. “For Iterum, I’m thrilled by the prospect of building a cult following, with all wines on allocation and sought after globally,” he says. Already, they’re shipping to Norway and the Virgin Islands, with plans to expand to Asia and boutique markets. His goal is to establish Iterum as a benchmark for ultra-premium Oregon wines.
But he’s also thinking about community and legacy. Dobbes considers himself part of Oregon’s second generation of winemakers, a tight-knit, collaborative group shaped by the pioneering vintners who came here to craft world-class Pinot Noir.
“From the beginning, Oregon winemakers have worked together to elevate quality and promote ‘Brand Oregon,’” he says. That spirit still inspires him.
He also hopes to help elevate Sauvignon Blanc as Oregon’s third great varietal, after Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. “Inspired by Sancerre, my Sauvignon Blancs reflect enduring partnerships with growers I’ve worked with for more than three decades,” Dobbes says.
Despite Oregon producing less than one percent of U.S. wine, he sees the region as punching above its weight. “New plantings, innovative producers and rising stars like Sauvignon Blanc signal a dynamic evolution,” he notes.
Looking back, Dobbes would tell his younger self, “Slow down and step outside your bubble. Travel, taste and reflect — don’t just chase the next vintage. Raising the bar isn’t just about hard work; it takes curiosity, courage and a willingness to evolve.”
Past & Present Winemaker’s Dinner with Joe Dobbes
A four-course dinner featuring hand-selected wines from Joe Dobbes 40-year winemaking career will take place on September 7, 2025, at Iterum Wines’ Orchard House. For more information on this celebratory event, including tickets, click here.
