Multnomah Village is one of few neighborhoods in Portland without a culinary reputation. It has a charming main drag stacked with timeless dive bars, well-stocked bottle shops, galleries and antique stores but until just recently, no discernible dinner spot worth waiting in line for.
That changed the minute Tastebud moved in. The once food cart tried its hand at brick-and-mortar first in the southeast neighborhood of Brooklyn before moving across the river to a virtually starving Multnomah Village. The move was a clever and probably not entirely easy one, given the neighborhood’s relatively unchanged nature. For mostly better and occasionally worse, this hilly Southwest Portland community has remained much the same for almost a century.
But people have to eat, and in light of Portland’s established role as a bona fide food capital, they ought to eat well. Tastebud’s menu, almost completely dependent on the kitchen’s hearth, promises just that. From wood-fired pizzas to chicken liver mousse to lamb chops, the grub is comforting and of an elevated quality. Perhaps that is unsurprising given chef Jobie Bailey’s resume, which includes time at esteemed Portland restaurants like DOC and Nonna.
Just about all of the pizzas are worth your attention. The Autunno, a mix of pork sausage, kale, pears and mozarella, is bright yet savory, the flavors of late autumn. The Simington is equally delicious, outfitted with delicata squash, kale, goat cheese and pickled peppers. The dough usually wins at least half of the pizza battle and Tastebud’s is no slouch. The restaurant is known for its other side project, bagels, and therefor has a good grasp on baking. Tastebud’s pies are built on a foundation of solid dough that tends to run a little thick but compensates in tremendous flavor and texture. Also of note are the seasonal salads, simple yet immensely flavorful, and the trout, served whole wearing a crispy skin atop vegetables with buttermilk and dill.
The beer and wine lists are short and sweet, mimicking an industry trend that champions well-curated over excessive. The wines range from Oregon, Italy and France, including some unsung labels like Matello and Teutonic. There are cocktails too, classic in nature and well-crafted.
Tastebud is only a few months old now and as a result, the décor remains quite minimalistic. Perhaps that’s a show of respect to a neighborhood that honors its heritage. And in any event, you’ll be distracted by the good food anyhow.
