The Edgewater on Seattle’s waterfront is a legend. The Pacific Northwest knows it, music and history buffs around the world know it, but nobody knows it better than the Edgewater itself.
When you’ve got a hotel like that, you can do one of two things. Slap-dash a restaurant together and coast by on the five-star reviews of star-struck diners, or rise to the challenge of making food and drink worthy of Seattle’s gorgeous, history-steeped, dazzlingly-situated waterfront landmark. Six Seven, taking the road less traveled by, has chosen the latter.
Thank goodness, because Chef John Roberts’ cooking deserves a proper showcase. Equally sea- and seasonally-inspired (for Seattle’s only waterfront hotel, neglecting either would be a travesty), his menus mirror the hotel’s legacy: sophisticated (for spring: diver scallops) without feeling stuffy (dressed in arbequina olive oil, almond and sage), classic (cedar plank salmon) with a touch of the unexpected (truffle cream and blackberry honey).
The jovial Liverpool-born head chef, possessed of seemingly boundless energy, pops out of the kitchen from time to time for a grin and a look around at his contented diners. Often the restaurant draws celebs, but the warm, woodsy decor and frequent live music make this just as much of a locals’ hangout.
The beverage program is a draw too, with cocktails similarly inspired by the turnings of the seasons. What to drink while you drink in the view? As far as spring goes, the sparkling, gin-based Tea Garden Cooler, complete with cucumber, basil and fresh-squeezed lime, would fit perfectly under the dictionary definition of “refreshing.” That’s not to discount the Continental Drift, which balances Avión Reposado with limoncello and aperol. On the other hand, the bartenders here are capable of turning a few vague words describing your drink preferences into the cocktail you didn’t know you wanted, and the carefully selected wine list is built around hard-to-get whites and reds from up and down the West Coast.
As summer approaches and sunshiney days become less of a surprise, it’s worth an attempt at snagging one of the outdoor tables that hang over Elliott Bay from the end of Pier 67 (from whence the restaurant’s name). Here, the views across the water and straight on to the Olympic Mountains are unmarred even by crystal-clear floor-to-ceiling windows (indoor diners have it real tough). They’re the same views that have kept the Edgewater famous for half a century, and 50 years from now I imagine they’ll be equally spectacular. We can only hope the gastronomy continues to match up as beautifully.
