It is generally a good sign with the owner can’t seem to part with his business. Nick Peirano, who started his eponymous Italian restaurant Nick’s Italian Cafe in the heart of Oregon wine country in 1977, is generally around, sipping a glass of wine or shooting pool in the back room. The McMinnville restaurant has become as close to classic dining as the Willamette Valley can offer, built around handmade pastas, an impressive wine list and an atmosphere that invites you to stay a bit longer.
Peirano is a self-taught chef from the Bay Area. In 2007, his daughter and son-in-law took over the chef’s hat, a hiccup-free transition that retained the familial feel of the place. The most recent addition is one wall over, a specialty shop called Peirano & Daughters that features a salumeria, local wines and a deli. But by and large, and much to its credit, Nick’s Italian looks like it did when it first opened.
Patrons can opt for the more formal, white table cloth front of house experience or the boots-and-overalls-friendly Back Room bar. It’s a fitting reflection of the wine country it has grown so intertwined with, at once casual and welcoming as well as deeply lauded and award-winning. The staff is well-versed in area vineyards and the resulting wines and the menu is so consistent even non-genre items like the burger are fantastic.
Last year, Nick’s was awarded its first James Beard award. Named an “American Classic,” the restaurant was deemed to reflect the community and offer a “timeless feel.” For the local winemakers, hungry tourists and regulars, this award was long overdue. For nearly 40 years, Nick’s has turned out remarkable northern Italian fare, from perfect strands of tagliatelle hit with gorgonzola to savory sformati.
Between harvest hustle and bustle and the produce at hand, autumn is the best time to visit. Look for the Dungeness crab lasagna, minestrone or a wood-fired pizza and enjoy it in the context of winemaking tall tales. Chances are, Peirano will be there, sporting his signature suspenders and conversing with usuals.
