Thierry Rautureau has a way with words. Yes, his radio show, Seattle Kitchen, with colleague restaurateur Tom Douglas does broadcast his mellifluous French twang and his presence as an articulated advocate of the Seattle food scene has been noted since he opened Rover’s in 1987 (and closed it in June). However, in regards to his latest culinary brood of Loulay Kitchen & Bar, the man also known as the Chef In The Hat has kept his words to a minimum—revealing a shorter menu than isn’t usually seen ‘round these parts of downtown Seattle (see nearby Cheesecake Factory for opposing examples).
Petite but mighty, similar to Rautureau’s stature, the food script is far from lean—and how could it be as it’s hefty country feed inspired by the town of the same name in Saint Hilaire de Loulay, France. The mid-eastern town is driving distance to the Atlantic Ocean and the Loire Valley, a wine region applauded for Chinon (Cabernet Franc), Muscadet (Melon de Borgogne) and the two wickedly diverse versions of Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé.
The complexion of Loulay, however, is far from country with its bearings in the Sheraton Hotel, located in the throbbing heart of downtown Seattle. From floor to the 25-foot ceiling, Loulay sports city swagger—a glamorous 11-foot-by-7-foot gold-plated mirror hangs as the nucleus of the dining room, four golden ball chandeliers drop like winning medallions from the top and draw eyes to the private, velour curtained event space upstairs, Italian marble is omnipresent and yet the congeniality of the restaurant as a whole does not come as a surprise. Metropolitan but practical, Loulay welcomes the urban businessperson, the country simpleton and even the afternoon boozer in the 4,000 square-foot space.
Inspiration from the room itself and Rautureau’s French countryside upbringing can be seen on Loulay’s focused fresh sheet and constantly evolving wine list. The menu doesn’t deny the freshness of the Northwest bounty and an increasingly opulent city scene, nor the traditional comfort flair that has become the technique of the Chef In The Hat. Memories moved to the menu for Rautureau from home and Rover’s, including a hot chocolate with brioche and salted butter recipe he borrowed from his grandparents and simple roasted chicken prepared by French mothers across the land.
Of course starters and sides like oysters and organic scrambled egg with white sturgeon caviar are available to sip alongside vintage grower Champagne, but Rautureau’s forte has always been dishes that feel good when you eat them. Earthy veal broth French onion soup is offered from open to close (11am-11pm), while the croque monsieur—that is topped with lavish mornay and a cartoonishly large duck egg—should be ordered for an early lunch. For a later lunch (not recommended on the same day), the beef burger oozes medium-rare succulence, particularly when topped with foie gras for an extra 15 bones and paired with a Loire staple like Chinon or even a Gamay Noir.
Put on the big kid pants for dinner and commit to one item per section of Rautureau’s quality, not quantity supper list. From the “small” plate section, the crab beignets are light and bright, like both the pastry and Dungeness should be—fried and frittered then dipped in harissa aioli. For the “medium” selection, debate extensively between the braised rabbit tossed with wild mushroom and arugula in pappardelle pasta or settle on the clams, steamed in a saffron, fennel and chorizo sauce. Screw it, just get ‘em both.
Looking at the “large” plate options, it’s easy to hit an obstruction to the plan—there are currently seven items here, the most verbose Rautureau has been yet. The duck trio is an orgy of poultry three ways, in the form of leg, breast and sausage, assisted by flageolet beans and a cassis demi-glace. Also served with a rich, brown sauce that is amplified by bone marrow, the beef ribeye (medium rare is perfection) is topped with a confit shallot and goat cheese and needs to be gnawed to the bone.
With a heap of big name restaurants opening in the expansive downtown corridor of Seattle, Loulay is one worth getting long-winded about.
Loulay Kitchen & Bar || 600 Union Street, Seattle || thechefinthehat.com/loulay
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