Incredulous debate over a wine list isn’t new to Portland. The designation of “CHE” for a country’s abbreviation on the wine menu, however, might be. Bonus points to downtown Portland’s Grüner for including a map of Western Europe on their eclectic and eccentric wine list and for sparking friendly table-side discourse amongst patrons. After hitting the double digit minute count, we pulled out the smart phones and found a server who was au fait with her European countries to inform us it was Switzerland. Of course.
When it Rome (or Portland), we decided to go with Pinot Noir—Swiss Pinot Noir after the prior dialogue. To go with the restaurant’s namesake, the wine list also boasted a variety of Grüner Veltliners, from Hungry and Austria, however, the title is more in reference to the German word for “greener” than the spritzy white wine. Portland’s Grüner is one that “celebrates the bounty of the Pacific Northwest,” the region’s viridescent land lush in farm-to-table offerings, daily pickins’ and nose-to-tail butchery.
Grüner is also described by its team as “cozy alpine cuisine,” a long-time culinary progression of chef/restauranteur Christopher Israel. The James Beard Foundation Award nominated chef has been developing Portland’s food scene since 1990 with eateries like Zefiro (The Oregonian’s 1991 “Restaurant of the Year”), the Asian-inspired Saucebox (a pioneer in the “Deejay-Café movement,” a campaign focused on the collaboration of food and vibe) and 23Hoyt (one of Esquire magazine’s 10 Best New Restaurants in America in 2007). Heralded for his ability to bring Old World style to New World cuisine, Israel’s Grüner pays homage to the comforting flavors of Middle Europe.
Clad in timber and dim illumination, Grüner’s aura is closer to a trendy lumberjack than a ski lodge (maybe it had to do with the amount of plaid in the room), however it is nonetheless warm, homey and congenial–from the charming staffers to the après–ski cocktail menu. Try the Winter’s Ransom, a hot drink of Ransom Old Tom Gin, honey, lemon and house spiced cider bitters, or the aperitif flight that features three one-ounce pours of unique, posh liqueurs.
The previously mentioned wine menu heavily highlights Middle Europe (Austria, Germany, Switzerland and France) but does not ignore its surrounding with a few nods to its home state’s renditions of arcane European varieties. Give the Whistling Ridge Vineyards‘ Edelzwicker from Ribbon Ridge a go or test a bottle of the experimental Pinot Noir-Blaufränkisch blend from Minimus Wines’ Johan Vineyard block selection in Willamette Valley.
If you’re in the bar and not just drinking (which is fine, no judgment), pop a couple roasted pumpkin seeds, scoop chicken liver mousse onto artisan grilled bread or keep it inevitably German with a creative spin of a pretzel-wrapped weisswurst served with Dijon mustard.
The remainder of the menu is available in the restaurant, open for lunch Monday through Friday, then dinner every day but Sunday. A word for the wary, do not be so careful that you skimp on the weird or foreign. “Halten einen offenen Geist!” Translation: keep an open mind! Like with the house-made liptauer—cheese flavored with paprika, caraway seed, shallots and parsley, served up with crisp veg and pretzel croutons. Or the Sylvies Valley Ranch calves liver spätzle, an eggy dumpling treated like pasta and served with wild mushrooms, house-cured bacon, apples and crème fraîche. Or even the big boy “choucroute garnie,” a platter featuring bratwurst, saucisson (cured pork sausage), cider-braised pork belly, cured pork tenderloin, sauerkraut, sweet mustard (for dipping) and Yukon gold potatoes (in case you needed more).
If you can stuff anything more into your bauch (German for belly), go through the back hallway on your route to the bathrooms and walk into Kask, a “modern saloon” with apparent influences by Grüner’s mountain magnetism and Portland cocktail acclaim. Sip on the Bicycles & Baskets, a mix of Bulleit rye whiskey, Ste. Germain elderflower liqueur, Aperol, lemon and cane sugar, posed for a picnic and will have you singing “The Hills Are Alive” by the end of the night.
