Go ahead—I know you’re dying to. Step up into the cozy corner spot in Vancouver’s fringe-industrial Railtown, crack the door into the fresh, teak-decked, light-filled, open kitchen eatery and ask for Luigi.
I can’t stop you, so I’m not even going to try. But there is no Luigi here. There is a J.C., but you should probably just call him Chef. And there is a Matthew; he’ll be the fellow with the smiling eyes and wickedly kind “I’ve-got-something-up-my-sleeve-for-you” grin that will help you find a seat and offer to fill your glass with house-filtered water (still or sparkling, with proceeds benefiting a local rotating non-profit or charity). The small, welcoming room will be full, whether it’s lunch, dinner or Sunday brunch. Theoretically there could be a Luigi in the crowd, but he is probably busy tucking into plates of family style antipasti or toothsome housemade pasta while downing a tumbler of wine on tap or tossing back a spritz or three.
But there’s no need for Luigi, really. Any one of the diners could recommend a tasty favorite from the oft-changing menu. Vancouver’s Ask for Luigi is that kind of convivial, homey place, where the tables are close enough to encourage conversation, but spaced enough for a lunch meeting (tried, tested and true). If someone asked me, I’d heartily recommend the anchovies & eggs; a beautiful hen’s egg is topped with salty, tangy salmon roe, resting on creamy crazy good spiced mayo sauce. Comfort food redux, but thankfully, not for trendiness’ sake.
And that’s this little gem’s M.O. Wholesome, balanced flavors, recognizable themes (who doesn’t love deviled eggs and handmade pasta?), turned out unpretentiously and—apparently to diners—effortlessly. Fried cauliflower and ceci as an antipasti—sounds easy, right? When the plate of highly fragrant, lightly golden cauliflower buds arrives, alongside crispy skinned, creamy hearted chickpeas and topped with a dusting of fresh Parmesan, my first thought was “fork into mouth” and then “I could so make this at home.” È impossibile! Chef-owner J.C. Poirier made his mark in kitchens around Vancouver (Campagnolo, Lumière, C Restaurant and Campagnolo amongst them) for his nimble balance of flavors and textures, and here, along with his business partners at Pourhouse and Pizzeria Farina, continues to do the same. His kitchen puts out food so humble, like “meatballs,” that taste so otherworldly delicious, it explains the lineup out the door.
Matthew Morgenstern, general manager and wine guy, mirrors the unaffected and honest food in both service and beverages. In addition to the tap selections (one each of white, red, beer and Prosecco), he curates a small, white focused wine list and amari dominant cocktail program. Time spent at C Restaurant, Salt, Nicli Antica Pizzeria and Wildebeest honed his palate and fine tuned his radar towards versatile white wines and their food-friendliness. All of the wines are available by the glass with a new bottle cracked based on a two-glass commitment. When a new bottle is opened, a bell is rung, and savvy drinkers know to watch the old school plastic letter board to see what is newly available by the glass.
Telmo Rodriguez “Gaba do Xil” Godello 2010 from the Valdeorras DO in Spain with my friend cauliflower? Affermativo. Don’t mind if I do. My best meals are closed with a grappa and well-pulled shot of espresso, and both are blessedly available here. Simple, honest, unpretentious, delicious.
So go, just go. Ask For Luigi.
Ask For Luigi || 305 Alexander Street, Vancouver || askforluigi.com
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