Yes, I am watching the current season of Top Chef, but only because Seattle’s most daring/darling chef Carrie Mashaney is competing for the title. If it wasn’t for her beaming face and fount of positivity and creativity on the tele every week, I’d have turned it off long ago due to the bitchiness/inconsequence of the other cheftestants—well, that and Padma’s unreal lack of post-baby weight gain. You know el prego Gail Simmons is going to put on a good 20 pounds or so. Gotta give it to the man: Tom Colicchio is one cool motherf*cker.
Anyway, if you’re not watching, the current season of Top Chef takes place in New Orleans—which is NOT pronounced “Nawlins,” at least according to Kermit “Mess with My Mind” Ruffins, who, during last week’s episode, pronounced the city’s name “N’Or-lay-uns.”
However you pronounce it, New Orleans is synonymous with food par excellence, and that’s what I’ve been craving ever since the start of this season. So, where do I go when I’m craving Cajun/Creole food in Portland? Acadia, that’s where!
Chef/owner Adam Higgs was born and raised in Omaha, Neb., where he worked at local French restaurant, V. Mertz, working his way up from dishwasher to head chef. In 2000, he decided to make the move west to Portland. He cooked at L’Auberge as executive chef and a year and a half later, he partnered with New Orleans native Bud Deslatte to open Acadia Bistro. Chef Higgs bought the restaurant outright in 2004 and has been at the helm ever since. The restaurant has flown under the radar for the past 10 years or so, and that’s a damn shame because it’s so f*cking good!
During a recent visit, I had one—okay, two—of the best Sazeracs of my life. Each was made exactly the same (a sure sign of a great bartender) and contained a sinful amount of absinthe. A “starter” of escargot vol-aux-vent with andouille, chanterelle mushrooms and demi-glace (a holy trinity unto itself) was more entrée in size—not that that stopped me from ordering more.
Next up, seductively crunchy/juicy cornmeal-fried oysters with gem lettuce dressed in an anchovy-laden Caesar sauce that would have made Emeril blush. Then, suck-worthy heads of BBQ-sauced shrimp and cornbread… Portland food and drink enthusiast Paul Willenberg has said good things about the pig-face pie and chicken-fried smoked chicken skin, too.
For the holidays, diners who want to enjoy time out with family and friends without getting the kitchen dirty should take note. Chef Adam Higgs is continuing his long-standing tradition of hosting a Christmas Eve Réveillion Dinner. Derived from the 18th-century Creole tradition, “Réveillon” comes from the French word for “awakening” and refers to a late night/early morning meal served after midnight mass on Christmas Eve. Hungry families returning from church services would feast on a sumptuous meal that had been laid out in advance. Acadia has been hosting a Réveillion Dinner since 2004.
The set menu includes four courses, served from 5-10 pm on Tuesday, Dec. 24. Cost is $40 per person. Reservations highly recommended, to book call 503-249-5001.
Acadia Bistro || 1303 NE Fremont St, Portland || (503) 249-5001 || creolapdx.com
Follow on Facebook: AcadiaPDX
Track on Twitter: @AcadiaPDX
