When Sapporo Holdings shuttered San Francisco’s Anchor Brewing Company this past July after 127 years, what many people considered America’s first craft brewery was not the only thing lost. Also lost was the brewery’s holiday gift to beer-lovers: Anchor’s Christmas Ale. Spicy and dark, yet never overbearing, this wintertime specialty has been, since 1975, the standard by which so many holiday seasonals were measured.
That’s true even here in the Northwest, where our own legacy winter ales have their own sturdy reputation. (Looking at you, Winterhook and Jubelale.) Typically medium-bodied with both malty and spicy notes, winter ales around here also tend to feature what you’d expect from around here: hints of coffee and cocoa, and whiffs of evergreens like spruce and pine. And probably some hoppy bitterness … because everything around here has some hoppy bitterness.
Below are five Northwest winter ales that are, at once, both roasty and spicy, dark in color but not heavy – and a worthy continuation Anchor’s winter ale tradition. And when you crack them open, make sure to pour one out for the dearly departed Anchor Steam. But in this case, we are certain that nobody will be offended when you do so in your mouth.
Kitten Mittens Winter Ale | Kulshan Brewing Company | Bellingham, Washington
Don’t get fooled by the cutesy name, with the highest alcohol-by-volume on this list, this deep reddish-brown pour is as playful as a baby cougar – stuffed down your holiday sweater. Still, with hints of bread and biscuits, chocolate and coffee and a whiff of dried figs on the nose, this is a true winter warmer in the most classic – and delicious – sense.
8% ABV | 12-ounce cans
High Camp Winter IPA | Bale Breaker Brewing Company | Yakima, Washington
What would you expect from the heart and soul of Hopsville, USA? Even in winter, you’ll get a full expression of the region’s pride and joy – dry-hopped, no less. There’s pine and spice, too, plus enough cocoa flavors from the chocolate and rye malts to balance it all out. Crack this open to warm up on the slopes, especially at its namesake ski lodge about 60 miles west of the brewery.
7.3% ABV | 16-ounce cans
Fa La La La La Winter Ale | Double Mountain Brewery and Cidery | Hood River, Oregon
At 85 IBUs, here’s more proof that not every winter beer must be a malt sandwich. Loaded with centennial hops, this reddish-hued ale is eminently floral, with notes of pine and bright citrus, particularly grapefruit. Still, there is balance in the bottle, as pilsner and crystal malts rise to the occasion. Is it a winter IPA, as we’ve seen it referenced, or a winter ale? We’ll have another while the rest of you figure it out.
7.5% ABV | 12-ounce bottles
All Spruced Up Winter Ale | Hellbent Brewing Company | Seattle, Washington
Like an ugly Christmas sweater, there’s a lot going on in this toffee-brown sip with its seven different malt varieties. But also like that sweater, not only will this winter ale keep you warm, but with the subtle addition of fresh spruce tips, it’s sure to get your attention. The local conifer conveys just a hint of bitterness but, at its core, this wintertime pour is rounded and roasty.
7.5% ABV | 16-ounce cans
Strong Gale | Buoy Beer Company | Astoria, Oregon
Let’s face it, if you are going to endure the winter months in Astoria, you’ve got to be sturdy – and with its muscular toffee backbone built on caramel and chocolate malts, Strong Gale is up to the task. Still, there’s plenty of piney and citrusy hops to ensure this red-hued winter warmer stays afloat.
7.7% ABV | 16-ounce cans
