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Just imagine. You’re walking over gently sloping hills through rows of vines, trodding along clover-hewn rows, with the buzz of happy bees in the air. You come across vibrant lilac patches of perfumed lavender, each fragrant, flowering bush different from the last. Further along you come into a grove of colorful olives, 2500 trees ripening fruit in the late summer sun. The air is peaceful, the breeze gentle and the scene serene. Are you in Tuscany? Provence? It’s a logical conclusion, but surprise logic because you’re really just 45 minutes from downtown Portland, at Red Ridge Farms, in the heart of Willamette Valley’s Dundee Hills.
Throughout the Willamette, towns are small and close together and the highways are lined with vines, Christmas tree farms, hazelnut trees and sustainable farms, and the foodstuffs as genuine and authentic as it comes (the Willamette feeds the fervent locavore Portland food scene). Red Ridge Farms is an enotourism destination unlike any in the Pacific Northwest, perhaps even the country. True, there are other illustrious vineyards in these red, Jory soil hills, a couple with little guesthouses and inns attached and some with picnic area for guests to enjoy. But no other wineries also have a thriving herb and plant nursery, producing olive grove, tasting rooms (plural: one for oils and one for wine), event space and luxury guest houses.
The Durant Family, one of the pioneers in Oregon’s wine industry, planted their first vineyard in the Dundee Hills in 1973, making 2013 their 40th year in business here. Penny and Ken Durant farmed the hillside, building their family and business over 40 years here. Their son Paul now heads the second generation, well equipped from a background in business and natural history and familiarity with the site. From 3 modest acres of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris planed in 1973 to 65 acres in wine production today, growth has been exponential, but the Durant philosophies remain the same.
The vineyards are certified LIVE (Low Input & Viticulture Enology) a method and philosophy that maintains natural stability and promotes sustainable farming, and the same strategies apply to the nursery and olive groves. The site now includes 15 acres of specialty plants and lavender, extensive olive groves and vineyards. After selling their grapes to other producers for decades, the family decided to start the Durant Vineyards label in 2003, utilizing a small part of their grapes while continuing to supply other local wineries with coveted Dundee Hills fruit. With no chief winemaker of their own, their annual 2400 annual cases (approximately) of Durant Vineyards wine is vinified by local winemakers, with different blocks overseen by different vintners.
According to Paul, it’s a case of “matching blocks to winemakers” and part of the compelling story of the property. When I tasted the current releases last fall, there were wines from 6 Willamette winemakers on the portfolio: Isabelle Dutartre (De Ponte Cellars), Jesse Lange (Lange Estate Winery), Dean Fisher, ADEA, Marcus Goodfellow (Matello), Joe Dobbs (Joe Dobbs Wines) and Chad Stock (Minimus). A new tasting room, completed in 2012, is the main vehicle for wine sales, plus allows discussion about the single block wines. Paul notes that “even though blending the blocks might raise some overall average, the site specific wines are more important to their core values of farming soil and vine.” Guests wanting to fully embrace the wine country experience can take advantage of the local cheese, charcuterie and fruit available for purchase, and are welcomed to enjoy on the wine shop patio overlooking the vineyards and Mt. Hood and Mt. Jefferson beyond.
You’re in the heart of Oregon wine country, so perhaps a wine tasting isn’t outside of the norm, but how about an olive oil tasting? Red Ridge Farm is home to the state’s sole olive oil producer, Oregon Olive Mill, and was recently named one of the top 5 olive oil producers in the USA by the Wall Street Journal. Self-guided tastings are available in the store, and educational tours of the olive mill can be reserved in advance. One of the largest olive groves in the state, they process their olives into oil using olive varietals grown on site including: Arbequina from Spain and Koroneiki from Greece. The bottled olive oil is augmented by additional olives from California as the Durant trees reach their full maturity. Current oil releases include single bottlings of the Arbequina (sweet floral, with a peppery spice on the finish), Koroneiki (green, grassy and fresh), and Tuscan Blend, featuring the Italian varieties Leccino, Frantoio and Pendolino (robust, earthy and pungent). In addition to full production facilities, Oregon Olive Mill houses a 1200 square foot event space with catering kitchen and full A/V facilities plus nearly 2000 square feet of patio overlooking the Willamette Valley, custom built for corporate and private functions. The retail shop also has a sharp lineup of other culinary gifts and plants for gifting or (as I did) receiving.
There is a cozy and well-appointed one-bedroom guest suite above the retail shop, with full kitchen and dual balconies for overlooking the estate’s mill and olive grove. For additional privacy however, I recommend booking The Stoneycrest Cottage, just a little further up the road. This two-bedroom, two-bath luxury cottage is nestled among the vineyard and surrounded by Pinot Noir vines. Perfect for families, the fully stocked gourmet kitchen has everything you need, and with literally dozens of wineries at your doorstep, you should have no problem with wine pairings. On more than one occasion I’ve stopped in at one of my very favourite must-hit stops, Red Hills Market, a quick drive away (see sidebar) to pick up provisions for a wine country feast on the wrap around view patio. “Of course cottage guests have full access to our property with olive oil and wine tasting facilities, as well as so many places to relax surrounded by Oregon’s premier vineyards,” notes Paul.
I couldn’t agree more. A soul-soothing visit amongst the vines, enjoying cheese, baguette, charcuterie and olive oils made locally, and drinking world class wines crafted minutes away? Who needs Tuscany or Provence—I’ll take Willamette, damn it.
Red Ridge Farms || 5510 NE Breyman Orchards Rd., Dayton, OR || redridgefarms.com
