The secret to a complex, mouthwatering marinara sauce is not Italian heritage, a recipe passed down through the generations or even certified San Marzano tomatoes (although that doesn’t hurt). It’s wine.
On a handwritten recipe card that’s been sitting in a drawer for three years is the Czech heritage, dual-generation marinara recipe from my mother, which does not call for San Marzano tomatoes but I use them anyway. What it does call for is a “slug” of wine, which she estimates to be about 1/2 cup, or the count of “four to five glugs.” The measurement is an audible so be sure to taste as your sauce cooks down over this 45 minute to hour-long process.
My mom’s marinara was a staple of my childhood, a kitchen necessity I took with me to college and post-graduate living accommodations in frozen jars. Today, I follow her recipe card as the written word, using it to top a basic manicotti recipe you can find on the back of a pasta box and “slugging glugs” of the 2013 Estate Merlot from Cooper in Washington’s Red Mountain. The wine’s spice drawer quality — coupled with its bouncy acidity and grippy young tannins — add a level of gravity to the sauce and a keen pairing to the dish.
Mama-Made Marinara and Manicotti
Sauce about 2 quarts; manicotti serves 4
Ingredients for Marinara:
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 stalk celery, finely chopped
1 medium onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley
1 32-ounce can Italian plum tomatoes
1 8-ounce can tomato paste
1/2-1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon dried basil
1 bay leaf
1/8 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon tarragon
1 tablespoon sugar
“Slug” (1/4-1/2 cup) of Cooper 2013 Estate Merlot
Directions for Marinara:
In a large stockpot, saute celery and onion until tender. Add garlic and parsley, saute briefly. Add tomatoes (liquid included), tomato paste, wine, salt, pepper, herbs and sugar.
Simmer 45 minutes then allow to cool for another 10 minutes, off the heat. Remove bay leaf then use a hand blender to blend until smooth.
Ingredients for Manicotti:
1 box manicotti pasta
1 pint part-skim ricotta cheese
8 ounces shredded mozzarella
3/4 cup shredded Parmesan, divided
1 10-ounce bag spinach, steamed
2 eggs
Salt and pepper, to taste
2-3 cups marinara sauce
Directions for Manicotti:
In a large stockpot, boil manicotti until al dente, about 7 minutes. Strain and rinse with cold water.
In a large mixing bowl, combine ricotta, mozzarella, 1/2 cup Parmesan and steamed spinach until fully mixed. Add in salt and pepper to taste, then mix in eggs until combined.
Pre-heat oven to 375° F. In an 11×17-inch baking dish, pour enough sauce to coat the bottom and set aside. Stuff cooked noodles with cheese mixture, about 2-3 tablespoons in each and place in dish. Top with remaining marinara and Parmesan.
Bake for 30-35 minutes, or until the cheese is bubbling. Drink the rest of the wine and enjoy.
