Harvest schedules and lack of refrigeration have historically affected brewing cycles, but in modern times the seasonality of beer is more primal. As we head into the cooler, darker months the body craves something rich, sweet and boozy with flavors that mimic baked goods.
Czech amber lager
This copper-to-garnet colored Bohemian toasty lager has found its way to Pacific Northwest taprooms. Although Czechia is often overlooked compared to other historic beer countries like England and Germany, its beer and beer history are appealing to many craft brewers, particularly those who are lager-focused — this was the birthplace of pilsner. Some breweries have even installed multi-tank systems to be able to use the classic Bohemian technique of decocting the wort, which is believed to give nuanced layers to the beer.
Washougal, Washington based Recluse Brew Works is known for its highly drinkable straw-colored lagers, and its easy-to-drink Speciální 13 fits right in. This amber lager features a larger blend of malt balanced by the bitterness and aroma of Czech Saaz hops and is just as food-friendly as their lighter lagers. In nearby Vancouver, Washington, Vice Beer is releasing their own polotmavý (Czech for half dark) for winter. This North Bank brewery is so dedicated to brewing Czech beers that they have a special decoction system. Across the Columbia River in Portland, Wayfinder Beer offers their triple-decocted amber lager, Golden Tiger, named after a favorite beer spot in Prague and made with a blend of floor-malted dark malts from Czechia, as well as Saaz and Sladek hops.
Chocolate flavors
Chocolate always feels celebratory and comforting during the cool winter nights. Heading to a taproom for a pint of something a bit sweeter seems just right as the year draws to an end. Craft brewers seek to satisfy this sweet craving by throwing cocoa nibs and vanilla beans in their tanks.
Deschutes Brewery in Bend, Oregon, is brewing their classic Black Butte Porter with chocolate and coffee flavors. Carson, Washington, based brewer Backwoods has a campfire treat–inspired S’mores Golden Stout finished with chocolate, marshmallows and vanilla. At Fortside Brewing’s Vancouver, Washington, taproom they’re pouring Cocoa-fied, a boozy imperial chocolate stout.
Barrel-aged
A small snifter of rich, caramelly barrel-aged beer sipped by a roaring fire is a cozy way to drift into a slumber filled with wintery dreams. At Barbarian Brewing in Boise, Idaho, head brewer and owner James Long has several different imperial stouts named after Celtic gods, aged in Woodford Reserve Bourbon barrels along with things like maple syrup, molasses, toasted almonds and cherries. “It’s almost like I’m baking a dessert,” says Long. Long serves these high ABV beverages in shorter pours to be savored like an aged bourbon or whiskey.
Sunriver Brewing Company, in Sunriver, Oregon, offers a Wood Series with a variety of stouts aged in whiskey, rum and other spirit barrels. Hood River’s Pfriem has a variety of bourbon barrel–aged beers, including a hazelnut porter and imperial chocolate stout. Missoula, Montana, based By All Means’ Cellar Series includes a variety of beer aged in foeders, wine barrels and spirit barrels.
Other great winter brews like Trap Door Brewing’s Night Beer defy a single style but fit with the season. “I love Czech dark lager and schwarzbier, but I didn’t want to use those names and intimidate drinkers. I wanted to create a dark, roasty lager, and I don’t want to be limited by someone’s preconceived notions of style,” said Jake Watt, head brewer at Trap Door Brewing in Vancouver, Washington. Watt calls his toasty winter brew a black lager.
