Nestled in the southeastern corner of Washington state, the Walla Walla Valley has become synonymous with Cabernet Sauvignon, blending a rich history with a forward-looking approach to winemaking. Often dubbed the king of red wines, Cab Sauv, with its bold flavors and rich textures, finds its perfect home here. The valley’s warm days and cool nights, combined with deep, well-drained soils, creates the ideal conditions for growing grapes with character and complexity. The result? Wines that are powerful yet elegant, with layers of dark fruit, spice and a touch of earthiness.
So, what makes Walla Walla’s Cab Sauv so special? It’s all about the people and the place.
Shifting tides
In the 1980s, the pioneering wineries of Walla Walla Valley, such as Leonetti Cellar and Woodward Canyon, began producing Cabernet Sauvignon with moderate alcohol levels (12.5 to 13.5%) and a medium-bodied style, drawing inspiration from European winemaking traditions. These early efforts were met with great acclaim and set the stage for the valley’s reputation as a prime wine-producing region.
However, the 1990s brought a significant shift. The influence of American wine critic Robert Parker, who favored riper, more heavily extracted wines, led producers to adjust their techniques. “American producers, first in California and then in Washington began to harvest riper grapes (resulting in higher alcohol levels), extract more heavily (leading to darker and fuller-bodied wines), and use higher levels of new oak to achieve high scores and attract consumers who were increasingly drawn to this style,” explains Matt Austin, owner and winemaker at Grosgrain Vineyards. This style dominated the U.S. market for years, characterized by higher alcohol levels and fuller bodies.
Back to basics
In recent years, there has been a gradual movement back towards more restrained, traditional winemaking techniques. Inspired by the early wines of Walla Walla Valley, Grosgrain’s Austin decided to embrace this approach when he transitioned from his career as an attorney in Los Angeles to winemaking in Washington in 2014. His goal was to create wines that showcased elegance and finesse rather than power and intensity.
“During our first vintage in 2018, I sought out fruit from Seven Hills Vineyard, one of the oldest in Walla Walla,” says Austin. “I sought to bring flavors of full ripeness at lower potential alcohol levels through cropping and shading the grapes a bit differently to slow things down, which is necessary for our warming climate. I extract gently, often with just one gentle punchdown of the skins a day, not concerned with trying to create a dark powerful wine, but instead trying to produce a more transparent, finessed and elegant style of Cabernet Sauvignon.”
A pioneering spirit
Leonetti Cellar, one of the valley’s most decorated wineries, has played a pivotal role in shaping the region’s reputation. “Our 1978 Cabernet Sauvignon was named best Cabernet in America in a blind tasting in the early ’80s. That was certainly a catapult to Leonetti’s success and made the wine world take notice of the varietals’ potential at a latitude once thought much too northerly for the western U.S.,” recalls Chris Figgins, current winemaker and son of Gary Figgins, Leonetti’s founder. This recognition brought national attention to Walla Walla Valley and underscored the potential of its Cabernet Sauvignon.
Figgins attributes much of their success to the valley’s ideal growing conditions. “A combination of deep, well-drained soils and a long growing season featuring low to moderate precipitation, low humidities and abundant sunshine,” he says. “I often say that besides our hard winters, we have the world’s most perfect viticultural climate.”
Spring Valley Family Photo Courtesy Richard Duval Images Woodward Canyon Photo Courtesy Richard Duval Images Photo Courtesy Richard Duval Images Figgins Family Photo Courtesy Richard Duval Images L’Ecole Photo Courtesy Melissa Ojeda Walla Walla Vintners Photo Courtesy Richard Duval Images L’Ecole Photo Courtesy Melissa Ojeda Photo Courtesy Katie von Bargen Echolands Photo Courtesy Richard Duval Images
Challenges and Opportunities
As the climate continues to warm, winemakers in Walla Walla Valley face both challenges and opportunities. Historically, producers sought out the hottest sites to ensure the grapes would ripen fully each year. Now, the ability to ripen Cabernet Sauvignon at cooler sites offers new possibilities.
“One of the main challenges we face that is also an opportunity is a warming climate. We used to look for the hottest sites possible to ensure yearly ripening of Cabernet, says Leonetti’s Figgins. “Now we can ripen the grape at cooler sites around the valley, allowing us to explore new areas and probe elevations in the Blue Mountains once thought unthinkable for viticulture.”
This adaptability is crucial for the future of winemaking in the region. By exploring these new sites and embracing both traditional and innovative techniques, Walla Walla Valley winemakers are poised to continue producing exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon that reflects the unique character of their terroir.
Below are just a few of the Walla Walla Valley’s wineries that have mastered the art of Cabernet Sauvignon
Leonetti Cellar: The pioneers of Cab Sauv in Walla Walla. Seriously good stuff.
Woodward Canyon Winery: Known for elegant Cabernets that age beautifully.
L’Ecole No. 41: Old-school cool with Bordeaux-style blends, including killer Cab Sauv from ancient vines.
Walla Walla Vintners: Small-batch magic with Cabernets that scream terroir and sustainability.
Gramercy Cellars: They nail that perfect balance in Cab Sauv, sourcing from top-notch valley vineyards.
Figgins Winery: Founded by Leonetti’s Chris Figgins, making small-batch gems that sing Walla Walla.
Grosgrain Vineyards: All elegance, vibrance and purity.
Seven Hills Winery: Approachable yet complex Cabernets from iconic Walla Walla spots.
Spring Valley Vineyard: Bold and structured Cabs that capture the essence of their estate.
Echolands Winery: Crafting distinctive Cabernet Sauvignon with a focus on minimal intervention and expressive fruit from their Walla Walla vineyards.
Cab is king in the valley, and you’ll have the opportunity to fully immerse yourself in this varietal with Celebrate Walla Walla, kicking off July 11-13. The event showcases Cabernet Sauvignon through rare vintage tastings, collaborative winemaker dinners, and opportunities to compare and share the wines of the Walla Walla Valley with other renowned Cabernet Sauvignon-growing regions.
To learn more about Celebrate Walla Walla, Walla Walla Valley Wine’s event marking the 40th anniversary of the Walla Walla Valley AVA, visit wallawallawine.com/celebrate/
