Cool climate varietals thrive in Willamette Valley—plantings of Burgundian grapes (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay) were the immediate impulse for early Oregon vintners, as most Northwesterners now know. Alsatian varietals also made a surge, like Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Riesling but the latter got the boot at the turn century courtesy to mass produced saccharine suckers under the same moniker. In a devoted resurgence of the variety, Riesling is on the up-and-up in Willamette Valley, with many thanks due to the Oregon Riesling Alliance, an organization dedicated to the rebound of the grape with the support of the 38 producers who bottle it in the state.
One such champion of Riesling is Brooks Wines, who focuses mainly on the Alsatian gem and the apt Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. With their estate vineyard recently receiving Demeter biodynamic certification, Brooks sources fruit for their Riesling from a harmonious sustainable vineyard, Ana, in the Dundee Hills AVA. Naming the wine Ara after the constellation just south of Scorpius, the 2006 vintage of this wine was served at a White House State Dinner and “represents the perfect balance of power and elegance,” according to Brooks’ website.
The 2010 Ara Riesling is certainly Alsatian in style, steering clear of the greasy, diesel qualities of German-style Rieslings and aiming toward floral, taut and dry. The nose is beautifully in bloom with honeysuckle, orange blossom, Bosc pear, savory Herbes de Provence and sweet baking spices. The palate packs a powerful punch of slate, wet stone, round fruit sliced by sharpened acidity and finishes clean and dry with finesse.
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