Natural wine isn’t yet a household term, but among wine enthusiasts it’s made its mark. The philosophy conjures positive notions of sustainability, terroir, history and uniqueness, as well as negative associations with inexperience, spoilage and dogma. Though there is no official definition, natural wine broadly refers to something made with minimal intervention. This usually means grapes farmed organically or biodynamically; native yeasts used in place of domesticated versions for fermentation; virtually no additives to the juice itself; and the revival of old-school techniques as a way of circumventing modern industrial processes. Here are six locales around the Northwest where you can learn and drink up.
Damn the Weather | Seattle | This dark, brick-lined cocktail haunt has a name that’s damn fun to exclaim and a wine list that’s all natural, showcasing locals like Washington’s Morell-Lawrence Wines alongside international gems from Slovenia and beyond. The bar even features a rotating glass of something “especially special” for just $9.
Vif | Seattle | This light-filled Fremont favorite makes a case that every wine bar should double as a hip cafe — and vice versa. Vif doesn’t stay open late, though, so the thoughtful glass pours are more a happy hour aperitif than a nightcap. Thankfully, a retail shop is also part of the business model, so to-go bottles extend the experience.
City Center Wines | Boise, Idaho | Highlighting small producers of organic and biodynamic wines — which often fall into the natural category, like Stone Crusher orange from Donkey & Goat Winery in Berkeley, California — this retail shop owned by a sister and brother team celebrated a year in business in November by adding a bar component with wines by the glass.
Les Caves | Portland | An actual underground cave is home to a cozy new collaboration between two of Oregon’s most intriguing winemakers, Ovum Wines and Golden Cluster. Obviously their wines are always available, including “keg pours” directly from a cement egg, but so are rare wine finds from all over the world at surprisingly good prices.
Burdock and Co. | Vancouver, BC | This hyperlocal restaurant refers to its natural wines as “naturalist,” but the idea is the same: low-intervention, highly personal products. That includes a slightly hazy 2016 Merlot from Naramata’s Lock & Worth Winery, co-owned by Burdock and Co.’s wine director.
OLO | Victoria, BC | Categorized as sustainable, organic/biodynamic or natural depending on production practices, the BC-heavy wine selection at this restaurant is every bit as beautiful as the local farm fare. Staff expertly pair seasonal dishes, like a crisp salad of hakurei turnips and apples, with exciting wines like the Methode Ancestrale Chardonnay 2016 from Naramata’s Bella Wines.
