South-facing, high elevation, cool climate, clay-loam soils, organically grown vines ranging in age from 40 to 50-years-old and a resident apiary with pollinating Mason bees to boot. These are characteristics that make up the Columbia Gorge’s Atavus Vineyard. The site originally was inclined to produce “Alsatian-inspired” Gewürztraminer and a Swiss clone of Pinot Noir, brought to the area by then owner Charles Henderson and esteemed Washington viticulturist Dr. Walter Clore.
The maiden voyage for the vineyard as stayed the course, even as recent owners Steven Thompson (winemaker) and Kris Fade (viticulturist) steer under their label, Analemma Wines. 2014 served as Thompson’s 14th vintage as a winemaker while 2010 was Analemma’s first and is showcased with brilliance in the 2010 Atavus Vineyard Blanc de Noir Sparkling. Méthode champenoise, 100 percent Pinot Noir and disgorged then released just this October, this is Northwest wine for those lusting after Champagne but yearning to stay local. Stewards, artisans and true craftsmen, Analemma’s dedication to their Blanc de Noir is seen in their production—the fruit is pressed in whole clusters, it is aged on the lees in neutral oak for six months prior to bottling then the wine is aged sur lie for another 42 months once in bottle (hence the wait time and recent release). The elaborate and complex process leads to a wine that is defined by the same descriptors. Vibrant in lemon peel, fleshy cherries and fresh-baked goods, the aromatics explode and tamper off into savory, earthy tones of thyme and chanterelles. Dry to the bone, the palate is wide in its opulence, encompassing the whole mouth with bready, stone fruit flavor and searing acid that does not depart quickly.
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